The House of Finn Juhl

Finn Juhl was one of the most interesting Danish architects and one of the architects, that really paved the way for the whole "Danish Modern". His furniture is still in demand and they are so because they are beautiful, comfortable and very, very well-made. In my opinion his furniture is best viewed up close, so you get all the details. The same thing goes for his house. His house is one thing people often talk about, when talking about Finn Juhl. It's situated just north of Copenhagen in Charlottenlund, if you're in the neighbourhood. It seems like a beautiful place, which I haven't seen in person yet, but that is the charm of the Internet. Someone took the time and care to put together this small video. Enjoy.

Eastland Made in Maine - Part Deux

I caved. I went back to get the other pair of Eastland Made in Maine shoes, that I had been eyeing for some time. My older mocs (mostly Quoddy and Yuketen) are all quite worn out, and they are my go-to summer kickers, so I felt it was an investment worth making. 

They fit me perfectly and the construction of the shoe feels very solid and very sturdy. The leather choice isn't that interesting per se, but this Chromexcel from Horween feels a bit different from the other Chromexcel footwear I have. It's more waxy, more greasy and bit thicker as well. I'm sure, it'll wear in very nicely. But the colour however is a bit more interesting than the more regular colours you often see, although it's not crazy like some of the more recent moccasin, we've also been seeing.

Another nice feature is the leather mid sole. It's not an original feature, as far as I know, when comparing to bluchers in old LL Bean catalogs for instance. but it is a feature I quite enjoy.

Nice grain on the leather. It has a bit more character than regular Chromexcel, though still very subtle.

Perfect stitching.

I wouldn't mind adding more Eastlands to my shoe collection. They very well-made.

Now this post wouldn't be complete without a video. I hope I haven't posted this one before. It's hard to keep track. This video shows the Rancourt factory, where I'm quite sure, that Eastland's Made in Maine collection is made. It'll make you appreciate your shoes more.

Hansen - SS12 Images

I saw these pictures some time ago, when we visited the lovely people over at Hansen (remember?), and I couldn't help feeling an urge to go to Sweden in the summertime - actually I just wanted the seasons to change into summer all together. But spending the summer in Sweden wouldn't be too bad either. Which reminds me, I should probably finally spend a vacation in Sweden, as I really want to visit the tannery in Tärnsjö as well.

I won't say much about these pictures other than I think, that the men in Åse's family (because that is exactly what they are - real men) look very handsome and the pictures are very nice as well. The clothes look amazing too of course.

I really look forward to spending some time with our friends at Hansen and hopefully we can cover some of their interesting garments yet again in another post.

Friendly Fire - Dad Rocks!

I know quite a lot of musicians. Some more talented than others. And at first I was quite set on not promoting any music made by friends or people I know, as it would be nepotism in a way. However some of the musicians, I know, are actually very talented and make great music, so I feel, that I'm obliged to use this platform to spread the word.

This is the case with the Icelandic/Danish band called Dad Rocks! It was formed as a solo project by Snævar Njáll Albertsson, but on stage it turns into a group, when friends chip in with all kinds of instruments. So it doesn't get boring, and you should definitely experience them live, if you get the chance. 

I'm not going to say much more about the music, I'll just let you know, that the first full-length album, Mount Modern has just been released.

Now to clear up any confusion I don't know Snævar personally, but I do know one extremely talented musician called Nikolaj, that plays in the band. Nikolaj actually made this video all by himself basically at the cost of a Happy Meal, a R2-D2 figurine and some fake blood.

I'm not going to interpret on the meaning of the video, as I have absolutely no idea, what it means, however it is nice seeing a very old and dear friend and the song is very good as well. 

Plus you should notice that parka he is wearing, as it is quite an icon in Denmark - and probably also in the rest of Scandinavia. Unfortunately it isn't being made anymore, but you can find them in thrift stores, if you have some luck.

This Is Happening - A Lasting Impression

When it comes to putting stuff out there in the world, I always feel very self-conscious. This happens, when I write here and when I try to create something out of leather - or fabrics But somehow I'm getting more and more acquainted with the feeling, so I took what to me felt like a massive step and I had a maker's stamp made or actually two. This I something I never really thought about doing, but now that I have had it made, I can't believe everyone doesn't have one. It just feels good putting your name on stuff. I don't know why. I decided to have one made for my leather work, as I feel, that I'm quite proud of what I make - most of the time - and I want people to know, that I don't mind putting my name on it, as some sort of guarantee.

With a little help from the very helpful, patient and kind Brenda at Laser Gift Creations I had two stamps made to my specifications. I wanted something very minimal and small, so it doesn't draw too much attention away from the actual product. I'm not really fond of logos myself, so why should I make one myself. And I also wanted the Futura font, as it is my favourite. I had two made because I wanted one for really small objects and one for medium-large sized objects. But please keep in mind, that both stamps are very small, which you of course can't tell from the picture.

I hope you like it.

Lifetime Investment - Viberg Oxfords

I think, I hinted this buy in a previous post. Some time ago I took the plunge. I jumped in at the deep end. I invested in a pair of Viberg Oxfords. 

This wasn't some impulse buy, I thought about it hard and contemplated deeply on it for quite some time before actually deciding to pull the trigger. I haven't looked back ever since, although both my feet are aching from having to battle with a couple of kilograms of leather, rubber and what I think is cement and steel. It's a constant struggle at the moment, but somehow I believe, that they'll eventually become as comfortable as a pair of worn-out Sunday slippers.

The construction is, as I said, very, very solid and the stitching is perfect. I would of course have liked a Vibram ripple sole on them, and possibly brass hardware, however I'm very sure, that I won't grow tired of these any time soon with the Vibram Cristy, which isn't the most exciting choice, but it is a very safe and solid choice. And in most cases that is the best. Furthermore I'm in love with the perfectly sewn welt, triple stitching and finally the waxed laces are just so good. 

Another great feature is the brown rough-out suede. It will not take scuffs easily, which means I can use and abuse them without having to think much about maintenance. Although I have been thinking about treating them with a leather conditioner with some beeswax. Unfortunately I'm all out of a good one, that I have had for some time, and apparently they don't make it any more. But I'll probably just buy some Obernauf's and use that instead. That will of course change the whole look of the shoe, but it will also add some waterproofness, which is quite essential in the Scandinavian climate. 

These were purchased at one of the two only stockists in Denmark, Shoe Chapter and I can only suggest, that you head down there and try on a pair, if you happen to come by. It is an experience, that I suggest you don't go without, even if you don't have the money to actually buy a pair. I didn't have the money either, but I have been saving up to buy them for months and I have decided to not buy much else footwear - and clothing - in the next months to come. As I said, an investment.

Factory Visit - Hansen Garments A/W 2011

A little over a week ago We visited Hansen Garments in one of their two HQ’s, which incidentally also doubles as their respective apartments. This visit was a culmination of more than a years worth of e-mail correspondence. Although we have managed to find the time to view their collection and meet them in person at previous appointments, this time we found the time to sit down and have talk. Like really talk. And we did so for hours.

It all began one, fine Sunday morning. I woke too late, but managed to meet AtD’s trusted photographer, Rasmus on time. We were both a bit tired, which led os to walking over to Hansen, as we wanted to appear somewhat presentable and get some fresh air. While we walked, we talked about Hansen and how the same information kept showing up about them. We were baffled, that no one had taken the time to write something original about one of the most original Danish - and even Scandinavian - brands in recent times. So we felt it was our duty to write a descent, original and in depth article about them. 

The fact that they have been so friendly and have sent personal invitations to every single event, they have held, may have made me slightly biased, but nevermind that.

I would also like to say in advance, that if you don’t like reading, then you may want to jump to the pictures straight away (We did an impromtu photoshoot, and I selected some pieces from the autumn/winter collection to showcase) . They are located at the bottom.

During the six or seven hours, that we spent with Hansen, a myriad of subjects were covered. Some were more jovial than others and some were strictly confidential. However I can tell you, that we have already agreed, that AtD will return for another interview, when the next collection hits the shops. This means, we will only be covering the collection, which is in stores now. Clever thinking, eh?

First some background knowledge. Hansen is a two-man operation by Åse Helena Hansen and Per Chrois. Åse does the designing, and Per does everything else. This of course isn’t entirely true, but there is a fun dynamic between the two and they seem to compliment each other very well.

Not only are they partners in Hansen, they are also a couple, when they aren’t working, which is apparantly, what they are doing most of the time. They decided to create this new menswear label, when they were both in between jobs. The idea was formed on a trip through Europe and they decided to go for it. Despite recession et all.

Åse had been designing for a Dansish jeanswear label and Per had been doing something in the creative media business. My description of Per’s job is so vague because the man has done so many different kinds of jobs, that you wouldn’t believe it. Before he started working on making Hansen a reality, he had never worked in fashion – or ever thought about stitch length and French seams, as he put it. But he explained everything by referring to his old job as a runner – I was used to solving problems and finding solutions. This is also what I do now.  

They don’t see the fact, that they are a couple as a hindrance in any way. Of course it has some difficulties, but at the same time they are equally committed and with reason they can spend every wake hour working on Hansen. They like to keep things in the family and among friends, which can be seen in their lookbooks, as they have used neighbours, friends and relatives, instead of using expensive models.

They aren’t only going against the stream in terms of making lookbooks and working on creating a brand. Åse’s approach to design is very different to, how others are doing it. She seems to have a non-existant interest in, what others are doing. For instance she didn’t know, what Our Legacy is, when some people compared their first collection to Our Legacy. The resemblance might be hard to find, but when people run out of words, they tend to draw parallels and pigeon hole things. 

Instead Åse talked about, how she was very inspired by old books and the collection of clothing at Tidens Samling. She is an avid photographer herself, and has always used photos as a source for inspiration, but never fashion magazines. Other than that she paints quite a lot, which can be seen in some of the artwork Hansen has put out. Lastly she mentioned an old book on national costumes – mostly women’s costumes and how it had inspired her to do menswear.

We also talked about the term “heritage” and how it has been misused for a long time. Hansen had the term heritage in their name to begin with to underline their Nordic roots, however they are now removing it in order to avoid the connotations, that comes with that term.

Books on national costumes and polar expeditions serve as inspiration

What drew my attention to Hansen in the first place was their desire to create a line of clothing, that was entirely made in Scandinavia. This has proven to be near impossible, if not completely impossible. This is why, most of their stuff is made elsewhere in Europe, but some is actually made in Scandinavia. For instance some traditional black wool fabric is made in Norway, some fabric is woven in Sweden, Elk hide was sourced in Finland and some things are knitted and sewn in Denmark. Other than that we discussed the hardships of meeting minimums, buying fabric from Japanese sources, finding the right factories to work with and why most Scandinavian factories, makers and artisans haven’t shown any interest in working together for some unknown reason.

We also discussed how to build a brand and how to find just the right retailers for the brand. It is essential, that everything is handled just the right way both in terms of partners, but mostly in terms of production. We talked about, how Hansen could possibly do very well in Japan, but Åse was reluctant to go there, before she was a 110% sure, that everything was perfect from A to Z. Other than that we talked about how the collection was gradually and organically growing and who they would like to be collaborating with in the future. They have already worked with many interesting people in Scandinavia and they hope to find others, as they grow.

Now for the fun part.

This coat is made of a Norwegian-made wool fabric, which is also used in the Norwegian National costume. It is similar to melton wool, however it isn't quite as thick. It has a lovely hand.

The embroidery is entirely handmade by an old lady, who lives near Copenhagen. They tried finding someone in Norway, as this kind of embroidery is typically Norse, however they found it hard to find someone with the required skills.

Other than that the construction, fit and details are top notch.

This may just be a wearable shirt, but it is well-fitting, well-made, filled with nice little details and the fabric is very nice. Who doesn't need a shirt like that?

This sweater doesn't look like much. However it is a masterpiece. The sweater is made of wool from the muskox, which is handpicked on Greenland, where you find a good population of muskox. The raw fibres are then spun in a very small mill in Denmark called Hjelholt and finally it is hand knitted - also in Denmark. This is probably the softest knit I have ever felt and I have felt some insanely soft, Scottish cashmere sweaters. The fibres are long, fluffy, soft and really expensive.

I immediately recognised this fabric as being similar to some old fabrics, that I have found. They knew, what I was referring to, and told me, that this is exactly why, they are working with Japanese mills. They make fabric, like we used to. The cut is long, which is very vintage like. Other than this you see some very nice details like different fabric on the reverse and some of the most beautiful cat-eye horn buttons ever.

These pants were made of some very nice worsted wool fabric. The fabric is deadstock and woven in England. It was purchased from a tailor shop in Copenhagen called Hvidberg, that had one roll of it. Again, very solid construction and beautiful details.

This vest is made of the same nice Norwegian wool fabric, as the coat was made of. Need I say it again? Horn buttons!

This cardigan is one example of the ongoing collaboration with Danish knitter, Ole Strange. The inspiration for this cardigan is the typical Norwegian pattern called Hardanger. This you normally see in the very recognisable Norwegian knitwear, although this is more minimalistic and subdued. As you can see the knit is quite complex.

This jacket looked liked a liner, I thought, but then again it also looks like some old, quilted workwear jackets. Albeit this is made of much nicer materials and may I please add, that these are the best horn buttons I have ever seen? They feature a small loop on the back, that is secured by a split. So great. 

This jacket would be great for layering.

This shirt has a nice casual feel due to the gauzy, double faced fabric (Made in Japan, of course). Other than that it features some nice leather buttons.

The highlight of the collection must be the anorak, which is a very useful piece, if you live in Scandinavia. The material is a very nice, heavy canvas material, that has been slightly coated. The nice kangaroo pouch, fishtail and metal buttons, make this anorak stand out. Very finely executed.

Flickr

Lastly I would like to thank both Åse and Per for taking the time to see us. It was an amazing day spent in good company. Hopefully we’ll be able to build upon this good relationship in the future. Åse and Per were kind, warm, fun and welcoming people. A rare Nordic breed.

Words by Simon Tuntelder and photos by Rasmus Peter Vagn Jakobsen