A Small Update from After the Denim

Mark Sommerlund from Shoe Chapter on the left, and me, Simon Tuntelder

The updates are a bit irregular, I know. And I'll hopefully be writing more in 2013 and hopefully I'll be writing more interesting stuff. The reason is not only my own laziness,  I've almost completely stopped buying clothing - except for some thrift finds, as I'm investing more in tools and leather. Lately I've been spending more and more time in my workshop working on a small leathergoods collection that I'll make available for purchase in the months to come. It's almost finished and I'm working on building some stock as of now basically. However orders are always welcome, if you have something that you want me to make for you or if you see something that you like, just send me an e-mail.

If you're wondering, what gets created in the workshop and see some other more random stuff, you can follow the Instagram feed HERE

Other than that I've just participated in the very first official After the Denim collaboration. I worked together with a friend of mine, who runs the shoe store, Shoe Chapter, who has supplied me with numerous good shoes in the past.

We've created some very good caps, which Ebbets Field Flannels made for us. I've just finished a photo shoot recently, which will be released, as soon as the pics have been edited. We were so eager to release them that we arranged an impromptu release party, which you can see some pictures from HERE

Lastly there are some other good projects and things in the working, which will be released, as soon as I get around to doing it. But time is limited and there's so much to do. I hope you guys will remain patient and keep sending me the great feedback and keep commenting on the posts that do get written.

A belated happy new year and have a great day

 

//Simon

Coming Soon

I'm not going into details or anything, but I just wanted to unveil the logo of the first collaboration that I've been involved in.

Stay tuned and watch this space

Eastland Made in Maine - Part Deux

I caved. I went back to get the other pair of Eastland Made in Maine shoes, that I had been eyeing for some time. My older mocs (mostly Quoddy and Yuketen) are all quite worn out, and they are my go-to summer kickers, so I felt it was an investment worth making. 

They fit me perfectly and the construction of the shoe feels very solid and very sturdy. The leather choice isn't that interesting per se, but this Chromexcel from Horween feels a bit different from the other Chromexcel footwear I have. It's more waxy, more greasy and bit thicker as well. I'm sure, it'll wear in very nicely. But the colour however is a bit more interesting than the more regular colours you often see, although it's not crazy like some of the more recent moccasin, we've also been seeing.

Another nice feature is the leather mid sole. It's not an original feature, as far as I know, when comparing to bluchers in old LL Bean catalogs for instance. but it is a feature I quite enjoy.

Nice grain on the leather. It has a bit more character than regular Chromexcel, though still very subtle.

Perfect stitching.

I wouldn't mind adding more Eastlands to my shoe collection. They very well-made.

Now this post wouldn't be complete without a video. I hope I haven't posted this one before. It's hard to keep track. This video shows the Rancourt factory, where I'm quite sure, that Eastland's Made in Maine collection is made. It'll make you appreciate your shoes more.

Just in - Eastland Made in Maine - Monhegan Chukka

Today I strolled by my friend Mark's shop (full disclosure and all that jazz) and decided to pop in to have a closer look at some chukkas, that I have had my eyes on for quite a while now. I wasn't sure, if I were to buy them or not, but after trying them on, there was no doubt in my mind, that I needed to add them to my wardrobe. So I got these instead of the Loakes, I recently ordered, as the order got cancelled. Though I had sworn, that I wouldn't be purchasing another piece of footwear with a moc toe, I got weak and caved in. (Although for the record it must be said, that I consider moccasins (bluchers, boat shoes etc) a true mainstay and a go to, when it comes to my choice of footwear)

The chukkas were from Eastland, which isn't normally a brand, that I would ever consider buying, since their production has been outsourced to the Far East. But they have created a nice little collection called "Made in Maine", that is all made in the US - in Maine, of course. I do suspect, that Eastland doesn't have their own product facilities anymore, so suspicion tells me, that they are made by Rancourt & Co. This isn't a bad thing what so ever, as Rancourt is known for making some very well-made products for a lot of prominent customers like Ralph Lauren for instance.

What really spoke to me was the sleek design, which means, that there is no heel slipping, as you experience with many chukkas. The last shape, that they used is great. Because of my wide feet I'm hoping, that they'll stretch out just slightly, but I'm seriously considering swapping my Birkenstocks for these as my new slippers. They'll be perfect, once I start wearing them.

The raw hide laces are still very stiff, but I'll be giving them some Neatsfoot oil or some Huberd's shoe oil in order to soften them up and thus creating a slightly nicer and tighter knot.

The peanut coloured suede, which comes from Horween, complements the plantation crepe sole very nicely, I think

I'm not sure, if this picture gives a true representation of the shape, but they are very sleek and I see them going very well with a pair of tapered jeans.

Here's what made me buy them; Perfect hand stitches. A token of true craftsmanship.

As many of you have probably noticed, the market is flooded with hand-sewn moccasin, which is a good thing to me, as I love them, as I enjoy the different alternatives. However I haven't been impressed by some of the recent Quoddys and Yuketens, as the stitching hasn't been slightly off, and some of the leathers haven't been impressive either. I'm not sure, if the increase of interest has meant a decline of quality. I'm not saying, that Yuketen, nor Quoddy, is bad in any way, but for a premium price I think you have to use suitable and good leathers and one of the most important parts, the hand stitching, can't be crooked.

So I decided to go for these, as the stitching is spotless and the leather feels really nice. I'm not knowledgeable enough on Horween suedes, but it feels really nice and I'm sure, it'll age well and take a beating. I'm quite sure however, that the leather has been oil-tanned, as it has a sort of waxy feel on the grain side, which you can see on the inside, as they are unlined.. 

I forgot to use the word, sturdy. In case you were in doubt, these are very sturdy.

A heavy leather midsole and a nice straight welt-stitching. Quality.

I like the fact, that the socklining is made of the same material, as the shoe itself.

If you are in the market for some bluchers, loafers, boat shoes, deck shoes with a hand-sewn toe, I suggest you give Eastland Made in Maine a look. They are equally as good, if not better than many of the more hyped brands, that are getting a lot of attention at the moment.

Now if I could just get the pair of Eastland Made in Maine bluchers in olive Chromexcel, out of my head, before I go ahead and buy both. Luckily I have a birthday approaching in the near future.

Lifetime Investment - Viberg Oxfords

I think, I hinted this buy in a previous post. Some time ago I took the plunge. I jumped in at the deep end. I invested in a pair of Viberg Oxfords. 

This wasn't some impulse buy, I thought about it hard and contemplated deeply on it for quite some time before actually deciding to pull the trigger. I haven't looked back ever since, although both my feet are aching from having to battle with a couple of kilograms of leather, rubber and what I think is cement and steel. It's a constant struggle at the moment, but somehow I believe, that they'll eventually become as comfortable as a pair of worn-out Sunday slippers.

The construction is, as I said, very, very solid and the stitching is perfect. I would of course have liked a Vibram ripple sole on them, and possibly brass hardware, however I'm very sure, that I won't grow tired of these any time soon with the Vibram Cristy, which isn't the most exciting choice, but it is a very safe and solid choice. And in most cases that is the best. Furthermore I'm in love with the perfectly sewn welt, triple stitching and finally the waxed laces are just so good. 

Another great feature is the brown rough-out suede. It will not take scuffs easily, which means I can use and abuse them without having to think much about maintenance. Although I have been thinking about treating them with a leather conditioner with some beeswax. Unfortunately I'm all out of a good one, that I have had for some time, and apparently they don't make it any more. But I'll probably just buy some Obernauf's and use that instead. That will of course change the whole look of the shoe, but it will also add some waterproofness, which is quite essential in the Scandinavian climate. 

These were purchased at one of the two only stockists in Denmark, Shoe Chapter and I can only suggest, that you head down there and try on a pair, if you happen to come by. It is an experience, that I suggest you don't go without, even if you don't have the money to actually buy a pair. I didn't have the money either, but I have been saving up to buy them for months and I have decided to not buy much else footwear - and clothing - in the next months to come. As I said, an investment.