National Athlectic Goods- Indigo Sweatshirt

Once upon a time there was a great Danish company called Blue Willis that specialized in clothing made of natural materials using naturals dyes. They were especially fond of indigo and made a lot of beautiful clothes in yarn dyed fabrics. Actually Blue Willis still exist, but production has moved out of Denmark, and the quality is nowhere near what it used to be, and the aesthetics is just different or may I say terrible. Now this post isn't about Blue Willis, I just felt that they were worth mentioning, as they made great indigo dyed clothing and I wish that more companies would do so, even though more brands are actually incorporating it at the moment. I like products made of a fabric that ages well.

One of these brands is National Athlectic Goods, which is being made by Standard Design in Canada, which also produces Homespun Knitwear.

This sweatshirt is obviously inspired by vintage sweatshirts from the golden era of American sportswear and casual clothing, as it features the v-insert on the front and on the back. Other than that it looks very well-made and easy to wear, and most importantly it will continue to develop a richer colour due to the elusive indigo dye.

Crafts - iPad mini Sleeve

Just before Christmas a good friend of mine came by the workshop wanting to make a Christmas present for his dad. He wanted to make a protective sleeve for his dad's newly acquired iPad mini. Since I hadn't been doing any sleeves for the mini, I decided to help him out, so I could get a pattern made. This means I didn't do much on this piece besides a little bit of cutting, but I just helped out as much as I could.

Basically we just used a design that I've been doing quite a lot lately. Calling it a design is a bold overstatment. It's not even a design, as it's so ultra simple, but the closing mechanism is great for covers/sleeves, as it doesn't incorporate any hardware, which can scratch the device.

It was made using a leather that is a bit similar to the very famous Chromexcel leather from Horween, as it is a oil pull-up, but not of the very greasy ones. It's very easy to work with and it's very easy to maintain. The leather comes from an Italian tannery.

It's hand sewn using a super thick (8ply) waxed linen thread from Germany that I bought as an early Christmas present for myself.

You can really sense the grain structure in the leather, where it bends. Nice and subtle.

I can't take credit for any of the stitches other than scrutinizing every stitch like a hawk. He did a really good job.

Unfortunately it's virtually impossible to burnish oil tanned leathers. So it's hard doing anything about the edges. You can either leave them raw or you paint the edges using a good edge dye.

Coming Soon

I'm not going into details or anything, but I just wanted to unveil the logo of the first collaboration that I've been involved in.

Stay tuned and watch this space

Close Up and Private x After the Denim

One of the best things I've experienced since starting After the Denim is definitely getting to know some very interesting people both in Denmark and from around the world. And all happened because of the blog. I cherish every single correspondence that I've had with people and all the great persons I've met in person. One of the most inspiring persons I've met so far is Sergei Sviatchenko, the artist who also happens to run Close Up and Private, which I'm sure many of you guys also read religiously.

We may have a quite different approach to clothes and fashion in general, but I think, we share a mutual respect for each others work. Last time Sergei visited me, we talked for a long time about a lot of things, but mostly about ties as usual. Again, we are totally different, as I practically never wear a tie, and Sergei wears a tie on a daily basis. Still I like the tie as an object, event though it totally lacks function, but I enjoy the different fabrics - like elegant silks, heavy tweeds, sturdy chambray or delicate knits.

As stated before I rarely wear a tie, so it may seem like a paradox, that I probably have a couple of hundred ties stashed away. But knowing my hoarding tendencies it may not be a surprise after all. Sergei looked through most of my ties and hand picked some ties that he wanted to use for CUAP and at the same time, I could get some pictures for my blog. Beneficial for both of us so I lent him some ties, which has now resulted in some inspirational photos, that all have that instantly recognisable CUAP feeling.

All pictures by Sergei Sviatchenko and all words by Simon Tuntelder

How A Leather Bag Is Made - In Denmark

The title may be a bit deceiving, however this clip shows one of the last remaining leather goods factories in Denmark and actually it was a place that I didn't know of, before I watched this clip. Or actually I knew of the brand, The Last Bag and I knew, that it was made in Denmark and I even knew that it was made in Jutland, however I didn't know about the exact place. But now that I know about it, I can guarantee you that I'll do whatever I can to visit the place and I'll of course also do, what I can, to visit the designer, Piet Breinholm as well. His satchels are also worth checking out, if you get the chance. They're quite good.

The clip is in Danish, which means many of you readers won't understand any of it. But I'll gladly help you translate some of it or help you get the meaning.

Watch the video by following THIS LINK. 

For some reason I kind embed the Ooyala video - if anyone can help, let me know.

As a piece of bonus info I can tell you that the designer, Piet Breinholm was a part of the rather famous noise rock band 18th Dye.

"Danish Design Icons" by Mikkel Minor

Denmark is very well known for design and architecture, e.g. Danish furniture is linked with iconic pieces and names – however this has not translated into the fashion industry. For many reasons Denmark has only a few brands and pieces of interest to the conscious male consumer. Very few Danish based brands have a history longer than 20 years, most production is outsourced due to labour costs and very few companies have succeeded in producing long lasting classics. However I have attempted to compile some of the interesting stuff that is out there – some already classics, some to be and some forgotten. 

Feel free to join the discussion.

1. Ole Mathiesen - watches 

Besides original Urban Jürgensen watches, which are hard to come by and very expensive, Denmark has not had any real production of watches. However, we have a strong tradition designing them. Ole Mathiesen is one of these brands and back in 1962 they created OM1 which hasn't changed the design since. It is a classic piece that will look as good in 20 years as it did 20 years ago. A beautiful love child between Swiss craftsmanship and Danish design. 

2. Sadelmager Dahlman - "Arkitektbæltet" - The Architect Belt 

A lesser known iconic piece. But it does deserve a place because of its minimalistic, Danish aesthetic. Handmade and handsewn in their old workshop in Copenhagen. Read more about in the "Factory visit", that ATD conducted some time ago - here

3. Mads Nørgaard - jersey t-shirt

Chances are that if you have been to Denmark - you have seen this piece of clothing. The design of this shirt is by no means original but it is a classic companion in the Danish wardrobe. Mads Nørgaard started shop in 1986 and began producing his own line of clothing and is one of the more well-known Danish fashion designers. His father Jørgen Nørgaard has a shop and a brand called "Nørgaard paa Strøget", which still produces its very iconic "101" long sleeved t-shirt and other garments in Denmark.

4. Duckfeet - shoes

The design is certainly not for everyone but this shoe has survived for more than 30 years. A comfortable fit combined with the best natural materials is hard to beat. The leather quality is good and the rubber used for the sole likewise. Not much more to say other than they also age really well.

5. JBS and Hammerthor - Underwear

JBS is a well-known under clothing brand in Denmark. Not so much fuzz - just affordable quality. Low key design and materials for the average Joe. What's not to like? Many nice products without spreading too thin. This is their classic basic t-shirt which has been worn by many Danish men since it was introduced in 1939. At a price of around only $20 you will have a trusty companion in your wardrobe.

Underwear since 1893! I will let Hammerthor speak for themselves: ”Back in 1893, when the original Hammerthor quality was established, following the latest fashion was not so crucial. In those days, customers were more concerned with quality. As clothes were expected to last for many years, it was important that they were durable and practical. These basic principles are what we still live up to at Hammerthor.” With that attitude, no wonder Hammerthor boxers are still the number one choice among many Danish men. Their website leaves much to be desired, but I guess Hammerthor is busy upholding their good quality. Hammerthor was considered to be underwear for an older generation, but they have recently had a comeback especially with their Ecorinigal line (using ecological cotton and a more contemporary design) and their collaboration with Comme des Garcons. Hammerthor can now be found on the shelves of many fashionable shops in Copenhagen and are being rediscovered by a younger generation who recognize the brand their father and grandfather used to wear. Some would call it heritage wear. Not all Hammerthor products, but some parts of their range are still supposedly made in Denmark.

6. Jaco - Shoes

Similar to the ’duckfeet’, this nostalgic design pleases the foot rather than the eye in most people's opinion. The design philosophy here is more concerned with functionality and comfort than aesthetics. But that was the vision, that the designer, Jørgen Keller, had with Jacoform.  These are often seen combined with washed out jeans, an Icelandic sweater, a backpack, crud eyewear and a beard. The history dates back to the 40’s. Originally the shoe was made of plaice skin, seeing leather was a scarce commodity during the war. The company was still family owned until recently and most production is outsourced nowadays. Luckily for the Jaco fans out there the quality and design hasn’t changed a bit, e.g. the upper leather is still hand sewn.

7. Randers Handsker  - Gloves

This is the oldest manufacturer on the list. Randers Handsker has produced gloves for more than 200 years which to my knowledge makes them no less than the oldest manufacturer of gloves in the world! Until recently some models were still being produced in Denmark. But it has now been outsourced – if you are lucky, you can still find them at retailers. The gloves will have a Danish flag on them if made in Denmark. Randers Handsker can still pride themselves on being purveyor to her Majesty The Queen of Denmark. The glove depicted was supplied to the Danish Police force for many years.

Clip from the Danish radio

8. Kawasaki - Shoes

"Sport shoes in the 70’s, disco shoes in the 90’s, working shoes in the 90’s and today a trendy retro shoe."

Despite the name this has nothing to do with the motorcycle brand and is purely Danish. This shoe was originally made for the sport of Badminton but became the single best selling shoe in Denmark ever. These shoes had a brief revival in the late 90’s, but can still be seen on the streets – mainly on younger teenage girls. However that is really a shame seeing as it is a bang for the buck shoe not unlike converse. I foresee that they will likely resurface again from time to time. It is dirt cheap and durable considering the light suede/rubber design. The original shoes were white and then came black. But not soon after they could be found in multiple colours.

9. Lindberg - Eyewear

Lindberg is perhaps the most internationally acclaimed brand on this list. Known for their unique lightweight titanium design they have won many international awards. LINDBERG is a true representative of the Danish functional and minimalist design tradition. It all started in 1983 with architect Hans Dissing and optician Poul-Jørn Lindberg designing the AIR Titanium frame. Using titanium Lindberg succeeded in making a design that is lightweight (they claim to be among the lightest in the world), flexible and strong. Unnecessary details have been done away with and the frames are designed without screws, rivets or welds. All this makes the frames strong, deformation resistant and hypoallergenic-nickel free. Nose pads and temple covers made from medical silicone ensure that the frame stays in place, and is comfortable. The frames are handcrafted (used to be made in Denmark, but is now outsourced.) and can be customized in countless ways making each pair of glasses individual – but still consistent in their look. The simplicity of the design doesn't claim much attention, but you have most likely seen them on someone famous at some point. The subtle look and quality doesn't come cheap and besides sitting on the noses of famous people, they are mostly seen on scholars and businessmen who demand quality that isn't flashy.

10. SNS Herning - Knitwear

Besides Lindberg SNS strik is one of the few brands on the list that is known internationally due to a revival a few years back. True quality simply can’t be denied.

The company was founded by Soren Nielsen Skyt back in 1931 under the name SNS Herning after the town where it is produced. The name remains the same and so does the method of production - albeit the assembly now takes place in Latvia, it's still knitted in Denmark. SNS is best known for their classic fisherman-knit sweaters, with its characteristic 'bubble pattern' that provides good isolation and prevents the knit from getting to heavy even when wet. The quality is durable seeing as it was designed to be used by seamen.

Their clothes are being produced in exactly the same way and at the same machinery as when the company started, and still in Denmark. Somehow they have managed to keep the prices at a reasonable level. If you come by any SNS knitwear please notice the hang-tag, where you’ll be able to find the handwritten initials of the knitter who was in charge of handling the machine, when the piece was produced. Almost needless to say; the company remains family owned.

All words by Mikkel Minor

What Once Was; The Story of a Danish Bicycle Manufacturer

Denmark has always been a cycling country – thousands upon thousands of people commute to work on their bikes everyday and Denmark is always mentioned as a pioneer country in the field of bicycling. Nonetheless, most people are these days riding around on bicycles manufactured in various countries in the Far East, which I think is a bit sad considering the rich (and important!) bicycle heritage of our small country. I hope this doesn't come off, as being the usual pathetic nonsense cliché of “things aren't as good, as they were in the good old days”, as there is still a lot of quality bikes being manufactured in other parts of the world. Instead I would rather use this post to tell a little story about a Danish bicycle manufacturer. I can't deny that there will be a pinch of romanticizing and nostalgia, though.

Nordisk Cyclefabrik A/S (notice the different spelling and even pronunciation) was probably established in 1895 by one H.P. Hansen. I'm not quite sure about the last part, as the former Danish time trial world champion Henry-Peter Hansen, who later became affiliated with the company, wasn't born before 1902. So either they shared the name or there has been some misunderstandings over the years. I invite you to decide for yourself. After moving the factory around Sjælland the first few years, the manufacturing was moved to the free port of Copenhagen. The free port was a place filled with different factories and a few other bicycle companies also had factories there.

What was different about Nordisk Cyclefabrik was the bicycle they made, that didn't have any chain like most other bicycles did. Rather they made a bike that was shaft-driven (“kardantræk” in Danish) with the name “La Danoise”. The type of bike became quite popular at the time and was even exported to other countries; even the Netherlands. Of course they also made normal chain-driven bikes and around the 1930's they introduced the Danish people to the Swedish Crescent, that still exists today. In these years the factory also made a bike, that is still known today as the “sofacykel”. It was a bike with a complete seat rather than just a saddle and the positioning of the rider was much more laid back; not far from the cruisers seen today. I'm not sure, whether or not it was that big a success though. It was meant to be more comfortable, but it turned out to be a quite awkward position to ride in.

In 1933, the company moved to Vanløse west of Copenhagen, where Henry-Peter Hansen had built a factory in a functionalist style typical of the period. From this period it is quite hard to find information about the factory and what happened. What I do know is that in the 1950's the factory was eventually sold to a Swedish company called Nymanbolagen, that already produced brands like the aforementioned Crescent. The old factory building in Vanløse was sold to the government in 1969 and it now houses a school of education, but what happened between these years I haven't been able to stumble upon anywhere.

I hope this little story will be of interest to some people and that we some day can see bicycles being manufactured for the people in Denmark again. Of course there are still Danish bicycle manufacturers, but to my knowledge it is mostly expensive, custom-built luxury bikes like Sögreni and Cykelmageren and cargo bikes like the Christiania bike and Nihola. I would love to see everyday bikes being manufactured in Denmark again and not just assembled.

All words by Lars Engelbrecht 

My Mom's Rings

My mom is quite creative and quite handy and I sometime hope, that I've inherited some of her skills, but I have my doubts, when I see, how many things she has excelled at, sewing, painting, drawing sculpting, knitting and so on. 

I could show you more stuff, that she has made or designed, but for now I'll stick to a couple of rings, that she had custom made to her specific design some time in the 60's as far as I recall (it could be the 70's, so mom, please forgive me, if I'm wrong). I've had them in a drawer for quite some time because I've been meaning to have them reproduced in my size, albeit I want to have some minor alterations made. 

Somehow I've never gotten around to actually having it done. Most likely a result of me never wearing much jewellery - except for a watch.

The first ring is the one, I've always liked the most. Please bear in mind, that it used to look a lot better, but one of my sister attempted to resize it, which made it crooked. To make matters worse she also decided to clean and polish it. Luckily it's starting to patinate again.

One day it struck me, that I could easily wear a signet ring, but in the end it'll probably be hard pull off.

I have just sent these pictures to a good friend of After the Denim in hopes of having them reproduced in my size.