Denmark is very well
known for design and architecture, e.g. Danish furniture is linked
with iconic pieces and names – however this has not translated into
the fashion industry. For many reasons Denmark has only a few brands
and pieces of interest to the conscious male consumer. Very few
Danish based brands have a history longer than 20 years, most
production is outsourced due to labour costs and very few companies
have succeeded in producing long lasting classics. However I have
attempted to compile some of the interesting stuff that is out there
– some already classics, some to be and some forgotten.
Feel free
to join the discussion.
1. Ole Mathiesen -
watches
Besides original Urban
Jürgensen watches, which are hard to come by and very expensive,
Denmark has not had any real production of watches. However, we have
a strong tradition designing them. Ole Mathiesen is one of these
brands and back in 1962 they created OM1 which hasn't changed the
design since. It is a classic piece that will look as good in 20
years as it did 20 years ago. A beautiful love child between Swiss craftsmanship and Danish design.
2. Sadelmager Dahlman - "Arkitektbæltet" - The Architect Belt
A lesser known iconic piece. But it does deserve a place because of its minimalistic, Danish aesthetic. Handmade and handsewn in their old workshop in Copenhagen. Read more about in the "Factory visit", that ATD conducted some time ago - here
3. Mads Nørgaard - jersey t-shirt
Chances are that if
you have been to Denmark - you have seen this piece of clothing. The
design of this shirt is by no means original but it is a classic
companion in the Danish wardrobe. Mads Nørgaard started shop in 1986
and began producing his own line of clothing and is one of the more
well-known Danish fashion designers. His father Jørgen Nørgaard has a shop and a brand called "Nørgaard paa Strøget", which still produces its very iconic "101" long sleeved t-shirt and other garments in Denmark.
4. Duckfeet - shoes
The design is
certainly not for everyone but this shoe has survived for more than
30 years. A comfortable fit combined with the best natural materials
is hard to beat. The leather quality is good and the rubber used for
the sole likewise. Not much more to say other than they also age really well.
5. JBS and Hammerthor - Underwear
JBS is a well-known
under clothing brand in Denmark. Not so much fuzz - just affordable
quality. Low key design and materials for the average Joe. What's not to
like? Many nice products without spreading too thin. This is their
classic basic t-shirt which has been worn by many Danish men since it
was introduced in 1939. At a price of around only $20 you will have
a trusty companion in your wardrobe.
Underwear
since 1893! I will let Hammerthor speak for themselves: ”Back
in 1893, when the original Hammerthor quality was established,
following the latest fashion was not so crucial. In those days,
customers were more concerned with quality. As clothes were expected
to last for many years, it was important that they were durable and
practical. These basic principles are what we still live up to at
Hammerthor.”
With that attitude, no wonder Hammerthor boxers are still the number
one choice among many Danish men. Their website leaves much to be
desired, but I guess Hammerthor is busy upholding their good quality. Hammerthor was considered to be underwear for an older
generation, but they have recently had a comeback especially with their
Ecorinigal line (using ecological cotton and a more contemporary
design) and their collaboration with Comme des Garcons. Hammerthor can now be found on the shelves of many
fashionable shops in Copenhagen and are being rediscovered by a
younger generation who recognize the brand their father and
grandfather used to wear. Some would call it heritage wear.
Not all Hammerthor products, but some parts of their range are still supposedly made in Denmark.
6. Jaco - Shoes
Similar to the
’duckfeet’, this nostalgic design pleases the foot rather than
the eye in most people's opinion. The design philosophy here is more
concerned with functionality and comfort than aesthetics. But that was the vision, that the designer, Jørgen Keller, had with Jacoform. These are
often seen combined with washed out jeans, an
Icelandic sweater, a backpack, crud eyewear and a beard. The history
dates back to the 40’s. Originally the shoe was made of plaice
skin, seeing leather was a scarce commodity during the war. The
company was still family owned until recently and most production is
outsourced nowadays. Luckily for the Jaco fans out there the quality
and design hasn’t changed a bit, e.g. the upper leather is still
hand sewn.
7. Randers Handsker - Gloves
This is the oldest
manufacturer on the list. Randers Handsker has produced gloves for
more than 200 years which to my knowledge makes them no less than
the oldest manufacturer of gloves in the world! Until recently some
models were still being produced in Denmark. But it has now been
outsourced – if you are lucky, you can still find them at
retailers. The gloves will have a Danish flag on them if made in
Denmark. Randers Handsker can still pride themselves on being
purveyor to her Majesty The Queen of Denmark. The glove depicted was
supplied to the Danish Police force for many years.
8. Kawasaki - Shoes
"Sport shoes in
the 70’s, disco shoes in the 90’s, working shoes in the 90’s and today a trendy retro shoe."
Despite the name
this has nothing to do with the motorcycle brand and is purely
Danish. This shoe was originally made for the sport of Badminton but
became the single best selling shoe in Denmark ever. These shoes had
a brief revival in the late 90’s, but can still be seen on the
streets – mainly on younger teenage girls. However that is really a
shame seeing as it is a bang for the buck shoe not unlike converse.
I foresee that they will likely resurface again from time to time.
It is dirt cheap and durable considering the light suede/rubber
design. The original shoes were white and then came black. But not
soon after they could be found in multiple colours.
9. Lindberg - Eyewear
Lindberg is perhaps
the most internationally acclaimed brand on this list. Known for
their unique lightweight titanium design they have won many
international awards. LINDBERG is a true representative of the Danish
functional and minimalist design tradition. It all started in 1983
with architect Hans Dissing and optician Poul-Jørn Lindberg
designing the AIR Titanium frame. Using titanium Lindberg succeeded
in making a design that is lightweight (they claim to be among the
lightest in the world), flexible and strong. Unnecessary details
have been done away with and the frames are designed without screws,
rivets or welds. All this makes the frames strong, deformation
resistant and hypoallergenic-nickel free. Nose pads and temple covers
made from medical silicone ensure that the frame stays in place, and
is comfortable. The frames are handcrafted (used to be made in
Denmark, but is now outsourced.) and can be customized in countless
ways making each pair of glasses individual – but still consistent
in their look. The simplicity of the design doesn't claim much
attention, but you have most likely seen them on someone famous at
some point. The subtle look and quality doesn't come cheap and
besides sitting on the noses of famous people, they are mostly seen
on scholars and businessmen who demand quality that isn't flashy.
10. SNS Herning - Knitwear
Besides Lindberg SNS
strik is one of the few brands on the list that is known
internationally due to a revival a few years back. True quality
simply can’t be denied.
The company was
founded by Soren Nielsen Skyt back in 1931 under the name SNS Herning
after the town where it is produced. The name remains the same
and so does the method of production - albeit the assembly now takes place in Latvia, it's still knitted in Denmark.
SNS is best known for their classic fisherman-knit
sweaters, with its characteristic 'bubble pattern' that provides good
isolation and prevents the knit from getting to heavy even when wet.
The quality is durable seeing as it was designed to be used by seamen.
Their clothes are
being produced in exactly the same way and at the same machinery as
when the company started, and still in Denmark. Somehow they have
managed to keep the prices at a reasonable level. If you come by any
SNS knitwear please notice the hang-tag, where you’ll be able to
find the handwritten initials of the knitter who was in
charge of handling the machine, when the piece was produced. Almost
needless to say; the company remains family owned.
All words by Mikkel Minor
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