Rancourt & Co for Need Supply Co

Rancourt continues to be my favourite american maker of moccasins (my Eastlands are made by Rancourt). They're hot as hell now and making mocs and loafers for so many brands and shops. I think, they're even still offering the option of having made-to-order handsewns made. Something I've been thinking quite a bit about having made. I would probably go for a classic ranger moccasin in natural Chromexcel leather with brass eyelets and their French-made Lactae Hevea sole from Reltex. This would be a classic looking and very wearable ranger moc, indeed.

BUT then I saw these monsters that Rancourt made for Need Supply some time ago, and was immediately enthralled. Then I figured that I should probably wait a bit and see if it would go away. But I just looked at them again, and I feel like a fat kid at a Cold Stone Creamery screaming "GOTTA HAVE IT!!" 

 Classic nylon boot laces add a rugged touch

 That stacked leather heel/counter and ripple sole from Vibram look great together.

Rancourt - Green Shell Cordovan Moccasin Bluchers

I have a terrible feeling, that these might be the coolest moccasin bluchers, I've ever seen. Some might find them a bit too extravagant for a regular pair of moccasins, but I'm all for this kind of craziness. This is taking a somewhat standard product, which admittedly is an understatement and bringing it to a whole new level.

They're made by Rancourt in the US. Rancourt has long been a maker for a number of other brands (including the Eastlands, that I have - see 1 and 2), so I promise you, that the construction and craftsmanship is second to none. Furthermore the materials couldn't possibly be any nicer. Shell cordovan to me is probably one - if not the - of the nicest leathers around and the sole by Reltex which I honestly didn't know about before seems very, very nice.

Eastland Made in Maine - Part Deux

I caved. I went back to get the other pair of Eastland Made in Maine shoes, that I had been eyeing for some time. My older mocs (mostly Quoddy and Yuketen) are all quite worn out, and they are my go-to summer kickers, so I felt it was an investment worth making. 

They fit me perfectly and the construction of the shoe feels very solid and very sturdy. The leather choice isn't that interesting per se, but this Chromexcel from Horween feels a bit different from the other Chromexcel footwear I have. It's more waxy, more greasy and bit thicker as well. I'm sure, it'll wear in very nicely. But the colour however is a bit more interesting than the more regular colours you often see, although it's not crazy like some of the more recent moccasin, we've also been seeing.

Another nice feature is the leather mid sole. It's not an original feature, as far as I know, when comparing to bluchers in old LL Bean catalogs for instance. but it is a feature I quite enjoy.

Nice grain on the leather. It has a bit more character than regular Chromexcel, though still very subtle.

Perfect stitching.

I wouldn't mind adding more Eastlands to my shoe collection. They very well-made.

Now this post wouldn't be complete without a video. I hope I haven't posted this one before. It's hard to keep track. This video shows the Rancourt factory, where I'm quite sure, that Eastland's Made in Maine collection is made. It'll make you appreciate your shoes more.

Just in - Eastland Made in Maine - Monhegan Chukka

Today I strolled by my friend Mark's shop (full disclosure and all that jazz) and decided to pop in to have a closer look at some chukkas, that I have had my eyes on for quite a while now. I wasn't sure, if I were to buy them or not, but after trying them on, there was no doubt in my mind, that I needed to add them to my wardrobe. So I got these instead of the Loakes, I recently ordered, as the order got cancelled. Though I had sworn, that I wouldn't be purchasing another piece of footwear with a moc toe, I got weak and caved in. (Although for the record it must be said, that I consider moccasins (bluchers, boat shoes etc) a true mainstay and a go to, when it comes to my choice of footwear)

The chukkas were from Eastland, which isn't normally a brand, that I would ever consider buying, since their production has been outsourced to the Far East. But they have created a nice little collection called "Made in Maine", that is all made in the US - in Maine, of course. I do suspect, that Eastland doesn't have their own product facilities anymore, so suspicion tells me, that they are made by Rancourt & Co. This isn't a bad thing what so ever, as Rancourt is known for making some very well-made products for a lot of prominent customers like Ralph Lauren for instance.

What really spoke to me was the sleek design, which means, that there is no heel slipping, as you experience with many chukkas. The last shape, that they used is great. Because of my wide feet I'm hoping, that they'll stretch out just slightly, but I'm seriously considering swapping my Birkenstocks for these as my new slippers. They'll be perfect, once I start wearing them.

The raw hide laces are still very stiff, but I'll be giving them some Neatsfoot oil or some Huberd's shoe oil in order to soften them up and thus creating a slightly nicer and tighter knot.

The peanut coloured suede, which comes from Horween, complements the plantation crepe sole very nicely, I think

I'm not sure, if this picture gives a true representation of the shape, but they are very sleek and I see them going very well with a pair of tapered jeans.

Here's what made me buy them; Perfect hand stitches. A token of true craftsmanship.

As many of you have probably noticed, the market is flooded with hand-sewn moccasin, which is a good thing to me, as I love them, as I enjoy the different alternatives. However I haven't been impressed by some of the recent Quoddys and Yuketens, as the stitching hasn't been slightly off, and some of the leathers haven't been impressive either. I'm not sure, if the increase of interest has meant a decline of quality. I'm not saying, that Yuketen, nor Quoddy, is bad in any way, but for a premium price I think you have to use suitable and good leathers and one of the most important parts, the hand stitching, can't be crooked.

So I decided to go for these, as the stitching is spotless and the leather feels really nice. I'm not knowledgeable enough on Horween suedes, but it feels really nice and I'm sure, it'll age well and take a beating. I'm quite sure however, that the leather has been oil-tanned, as it has a sort of waxy feel on the grain side, which you can see on the inside, as they are unlined.. 

I forgot to use the word, sturdy. In case you were in doubt, these are very sturdy.

A heavy leather midsole and a nice straight welt-stitching. Quality.

I like the fact, that the socklining is made of the same material, as the shoe itself.

If you are in the market for some bluchers, loafers, boat shoes, deck shoes with a hand-sewn toe, I suggest you give Eastland Made in Maine a look. They are equally as good, if not better than many of the more hyped brands, that are getting a lot of attention at the moment.

Now if I could just get the pair of Eastland Made in Maine bluchers in olive Chromexcel, out of my head, before I go ahead and buy both. Luckily I have a birthday approaching in the near future.