Tory Leather - Hoof Pick Belt

It may seem strange, that I make leather goods myself, and still advocate for other makers, but I think it's all about making educated choices, when it comes to purchasing any sort of goods. That means deciding between different options based on your own knowledge and preferences, while taking other people's opinion into consideration.

Tory Leather belts are made in the USA of quite good materials. The leather is bridle leather and the hardware seems solid enough, although I don't think it's a solid brass belt buckle, as my own personal belt lost its golden brass luster and now looks like a nickle/steel buckle. But the belt itself is flawlessly made, albeit you definitely feel that it's not a handmade belt. What I like about it, is definitely the equestrian influence. The buckle is actually a foldable hoof pick (for cleaning the horse's hoof) which is used in a quite clever way. 

But here comes the very best part; It's cheap. It's actually dirt cheap. You can pick it up some places for around $40. So if you're on a budget, this is a good deal for a casual belt.

Brady Bags - Severn and Gelderburn

Despite having a very good Filson 257 that has served me very well over the years, I often contemplate about buying a Brady messenger bag. Maybe it's the urge to own a piece from every good maker out there or maybe it's the anglo influence or maybe I'm just more into fishing than into hunting. At least I find myself looking at the beautifully made bags by Brady. I already own a very large tote from Brady, which is a limited edition tote made from raw selvage denim, but I would much rather have either the Severn or the Gelderburn because of their classic, almost iconic, design. 

The recipe is basically the same for all Brady bags. Expertly crafted in England using quality materials, such as bridle leather, solid brass hardware, cotton webbing and layered waterproof canvas. Which is probably also why they are so popular in Japan, and why Brady produce several bags, which are intended for the Japanese market only. Mr Mudd and Mr Gold in Stockholm used to carry some of the Japan-only models, but they seem to have seized their relationship with Brady unfortunately. Speaking of special editions; Nigel Cabourn has also used Brady to produce some bags in both Harris Tweed and if I remember correctly also some woolen fabric from Fox Brothers. But I wasn't, as fond of them, as the classic offerings from Brady.

The Severn

The Gelderburn

 
The Gelderburn is probably my favourite. Especially after seeing a picture of Michael Palin rocking it.

Acme Thunderer

For some years now I've also kept a whistle among my keys. I don't know why really, as it's not a safety measure, but I think I was attracted to design and the story of pilots using the whistle during WW II as a survival whistle. I don't know, if the story is true, but I do know one thing though; The Acme Thunderer is one hell of a whistle.

The Acme Thunderer is the most iconic pea whistle ever made and it's still made in England (in Birmingham) by Acme Whistles. It's made of solid brass that has been nickel plated (which will look even better, once the plating starts to chip). There are a few different make ups in the Thunderer series and some of them are even made of plastic, still if you go for the classic no 58, you should be settled.

In all honesty I've never found a genuine reason to use it which hasn't stopped me from enjoying carrying it around. But if you're a dog trainer, a referee, a pilot lost at sea, a policeman or if you frequently go to raves, I suggest you buy one straight away.

Archival Clothing Rucksack

I think there is a subject, that is yet to be completely covered, and it will probably take a lot of more posts on the subject for it to be fully covered, but that isn't the intention either. I'm - of course - referring to the subject of backpacks.

I still haven't decided on one for myself, so hopefully I'll be able to figure out what to buy, once I have covered some of the options, that I have been thinking about. If you have any suggestions, then please share them.

Archival Clothing has been mentioned, and you need to be familiar with the blog and their shop now. If not pay them a visit, please. They make beautiful objects with the same recipe basically. Waxed cotton + Mil-spec + Solid brass + Leather + Made in USA - Something good and durable.

I'm not going to say much about their rucksack. I think, it is a great product by great people, that has been very well thought through.

Just have a look at this

1 - Lightly padded back panel provides overall structure andprotection from awkward cargo. Pack rides closely and load does not sag.

2 - Shoulder straps attach into side seam, curving straps around body for comfort.
3 - Twin outer bellows pockets are easy to access and are nicely sized for smaller personal items.
4 - Single Horween Chromexcel leather strap is light, durable, and convenient.
5 - Dimension is taller and narrower. Loads carry best in this configuration.
6 - Drawstring around top opening keeps load secure and further prevents bag flopping.
7 - Two inch wide webbing shoulder straps are perfectly comfortable for loads up to 25 or 30 pounds.
8 - Convenient locker loop.
9 - Double-layered bottom ensures a long life.
10 - Fully finished inside and out. Seams fully bound in our own waxed canvas bias tape. Stress points are bar-tacked or riveted. Snaps and rivets are reinforced with leather washers.

In terms of style I don't think much of a backpack, but in terms of practicality I can't seem to think of a replacement. A tote/shopper is not always handy and a messenger creates shoulder fatigue sometimes. That's why I need a backpack for school and possibly travel as well.

Archival Clothing - Webbing Belt

The blog Archival Clothing is a dear favourite of mine and I promise, that they will be featured a lot more here in the times to come. I came to think of them today because I was putting on an old, cherised belt made by J.M Davidson, which is an O-ring belt made of a sort of hard nylon webbing. A bit too flimsy for my taste nowadays.

Archival Clothing has made their version of a classic webbing belt using cotton webbing from the UK, leather from Horween (Chromexcel, of course) in the US and finally solid brass O-rings, that were also sourced in the UK. The belt was assembled in Oregon in the US, where Archival Clothing also reside (except for one of them, who recently left for NY). The belt also features Archival Clothing's signature red bartacking.

If you have ever had anything made of solid brass, you know, that the brass will tarnish and the webbing will feel hard at first, but it will also soften. However it will probably never feel flimsy.

The best part about the belt is probably the price - just around $25,- I would definitely be ordering one, if it wasn't because I have been thinking about making such a belt myself. I just need to get around to doing it. 

Filson Rucksack

Please excuse my absence. I know, that some of you have come to expect a post a day or even more, and I still strive to continue doing so, however this is something I do in my spare time and at the moment I haven't had any time to spare. Unfortunately the time hasn't been spent in the basement doing something creative, nor have I been attending a lot of social events, I have been stuck at school with different projects.

So actually I just decided to do a really quick post on another backpack alternative, but this one is on a very obvious one, so I do not have to write a novel.

I like Filson and I like Filson a lot. I do own quite a lot of Filson. And I have to say, that if I were to buy some outerwear right now, I would be looking at their selection. The bags I have from Filson have all held up very nicely, and I think, they'll be around for another couple of years or decades.

The Filson Rucksack is mainstay in their very rugged, yet classic assortment of bags. It is constructed of a sturdy 22oz cotton twill, that has been treated with oils and waxes for water repellancy. As with most Filson bags this bag also features a heavy duty solid brass zipper (YKK, for the connoisseur), and of course their nice American bridle leather is also used on this pack. I say American Bridle because there is a difference between English Bridle leather and American bridle leather, but I won't be going into that topic now.
The use of such beefy, but of course also durable, materials make this bag quite heavy to carry, which of course is a downside to many people. However the quality is "bombproff", as one reviewer noted.

Did I mention, that this rucksack is made in the US? Well, it is.

If I were looking for a bag for travelling, I would probably be buying the Filson Duffle in medium or large. But I could probably also be talked into getting one from JW. Hulme or a vintage Gokey...

One Month of Denim - Day 26

These are the hands of a passionate man

We are getting closer and closer to the end of this marathon. I'm almost out of things, that I want to write about, but I think I'll make it. Then we will take a long break from denim, unless something amazing is uncovered in the deserts of Arizona or something sensational happens.

That sensational thing happening could be coming from the English brand Tender Co. and I would be foolish to not include Tender in a write up on denim - especially on modern denim -, as I see this brand as one of the most innovative.

So what makes Tender more innovative than others or rather should I say, what makes Tender so great? That might seem like a fairly easy question to answer, but there are many things that you need to include in order to answer that question fully.

This list might give some perspective to why Tender is so great. In no particular order of course.

1. William Kroll seems like friendliest man alive. Probably also one of the most passionate and creative.

2. Everything is cut a sewn in England using small factories and artisans - you can take this literally

3. The use of natural dyes like woad dye (I type of indigo dye), logwood and weld

4. The use of full grain leather that has been oak tanned in England by an amazing tannery called JF Baker - (I have used this leather myself and I have to say it is the best belt leather, I have used)

5. The overly excessive use of small, well-thought details - for instance the "snob's thumb pocket"

6. Not necessarily making slim, basic 5 pocket jeans a la the New Standard

7. Custom made (in England) wax cast solid brass buttons

8. Custom made (in England) wax cast belt buckles of very original designs.

9. Tender has a piece of soap in their assortment

10. Small, well curated collection - that grows organically

11. Collaboration with Hickorees Hard Goods in New York - Don't you love this?

12. Loopwheeled t-shirts with print or hand dyed

13. The level of almost full disclosure through the Tender thread on Superfuture. Definitely worth a couple of hours of browsing due to the pictorials posted by William himself

14. Ingenious construction of the garments - bias cut and one-piece cut

15. The introduction of sheepskin mittens in the collection and small runs of denim aprons

16. Beautiful print illustrations done by an old artist named Dorrit Dekk

17. For having a wall clock as a prime feature on the website

18. You can ask him anything in the Superfuture thread, and he will probably provide answers for more than you asked

19. Do you need more reasons? Really?

20. If you need more, watch this film

I wouldn't mind a pair of these, although my taste is probably a bit too conventional (boring) to pull them off on a daily basis.