Fabric Knowledge - Ventile

colourswatch of available Ventile colours

I figured, that doing some small features on some very iconic fabrics, would help generate some knowledge and create an appreciation of good fabrics and well-made clothing.

The first fabric I would like to write about is Ventile.

The fabric Ventile was developed by Scientists at the Shirley Institute during the Second World War. But the idea was spawned in the 30's, when the British government feared, that there would be a shortage of flax, which was used for fire hoses among other things. So they decided to find a way to use cotton instead and that is how they invented Ventile.

Ventile is a hard wearing all cotton fabric, that is made of tightly woven long staple cotton fibres. Ventile is known to be both waterproof and windproof - and it's not on account of the breathability. The waterproofness is created because the cotton fibres expand when they become wet making no room for the water to penetrate. So Ventile is not waterproofed through a coating of some kind of wax, membrane or other coating, which is also why it never looses its waterproof abilities with wear.

Ventile is a favourite amongst hunters and naturalists because it is a very silent material. It produces no noise because it being all cotton. This is quite a contrast compared to synthetic and membrane fabrics like Gore-Tex, which can feel like walking around with Einstürzende Neubauten in the shape of a jacket. Besides the silent quality it is very tear-resistant and it doesn't catch fire easily. 

There are three grades of Ventile and they are intended for some rather specific uses. Ventile has generally been used in many situations throughout history. It has a long history in the military, on polar expeditions and it was used in the first successful climbs of both Annapurna and Everest. Unfortunately it is only made in one specific mill in the UK called Talbot Weaving, hence making the availability sparse and the price very high.

I have seen some beautiful jackets in Ventile from Beaver of Bolton (a lesser known brilliant English maker of country clothing),  clothes by Wings+Horns and Outlier, but I think some of the best have been made by Nigel Cabourn - the master of outerwear. This is of course mostly in a fashion context. I didn't include any actual military jackets, though I know the RAF smock is very appreciated.

Ventile and all kinds of goodness - Coyote fur trim,  goosedown filling, Riri zipper, and sheepskin lining

Harris Tweed with Ventile patches

In the Yuketen x Cabourn collaboration. Classic Yuketen Hunting boot (which are also deadly silent on concrete btw) with Ventile accents

Shrooming

I had the pleasure of meeting an American exchange student some years back, who talked about how he went "shrooming" in the mountains of Colorado. I told him, that I liked to go shrooming too. With my mom and dad even. As the talk progressed and when he offered me more than a beer and a smoke (I quit that a long time ago FYI), I quickly figured, that I was sure as hell not checking Urban Dictionary often enough. 

Fast forward some years I still like to go shrooming with my mom and dad, so this weekend when I paid them a visit, I went mushroom hunting. This time I did so with my dad and my girlfriend, who managed to find a great spot, that was literally filled with some of the biggest chanterelles, I had ever seen. 

I did bring my camera in hopes of taking some lovely pictures of the woods and of our harvest, but I had forgotten to charge the battery, hence the poor iPhone pictures. Anyways, they are testament of some very fond memories of a day well-spent, so I don't mind and I hope you don't either. 

For a long time out basket looked like this. Some nice chanterelles and a few other sorts, that I don't know the English name for.

My girlfriend is wearing a pair of Tretorn sneakers. They were made on a military contract for the Danish Civil Defence in the 1980's. They are so great. Unfortuntately they were found deadstock and chances of finding another pair is probably quite slim.

But then we found a really great spot and the basket quickly filled with chanterelles

In case you are wondering, I'm wearing an ECWCS Gen II Gore-Tex parka in Woodland camo. I would have liked it an a different camo pattern, but I got it at a great price. Other than that it is an extremely functional and wearable garment. I can't recommend it too highly. If you are trying to find one for yourself, please remember to go down one size, as they fit quite roomy. If there is some interest, I'll gladly do a post on it at some point. Other than that I'm wearing a Giman shirt, William Lockie lambswool knit, LVC 1955 501 jeans, and Red Wing chukkas. As always, very boring.

Yes, Ladies and gentelman, that is an original Opinel knife - if that is worth mentioning. It is perfect for picking mushrooms. Other than that they are made in France and they are relatively cheap. Not the best knife you'll ever hold, but it's a fun one to have. 

The woods are filled with ripe mushrooms at the moment, that are ready to be picked. They are a product of the horrible summer of low temperatures and the loads of rain, we had here in Denmark. If you don't know anything about picking mushrooms, find someone who does and tag along. Or just go for the chanterelles, they are quite easy to identify.