Showing posts with label Simon Tuntelder. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Simon Tuntelder. Show all posts

Tuesday, June 4, 2013

Almost The End of An Era

This has been a long time coming; I'm abandoning ship and jumping aboard a new one. It was never the plan to keep After the Denim on the Blogger-format, however I stayed here out of necessity. I have finally created my own website, which includes and new blog and more importantly a web-shop.



You can visit it  here 


The new site has been in the making for quite some time, and I'm finally pleased enough with the result to make it public, and you, my dear readers, are the first ones to know. 

I plan to leave this blog here as a memory of something great and I'll continue the blogging on the site in a new format. Although the new site is obviously more business oriented, than this one I promise that I'll continue writing about the stuff that I wrote about before without considering the business aspect of things. Things won't change that much on the blog part, I hope, except for writing a whole lot more, than I've done recently and hopefully the frequency will also go up. I'm striving to get better. And I sincerely hope that you'll continue reading ATD and commenting like you've done in the past. It has been so great and I feel very fortunate about all the readers, followers, people who comment and even that Indonesian guy who decided to copy my entire blog.

But the move does include some changes, I'm afraid. You'll now be able to buy the leather goods that I make, which you also could before, but it has been made a lot easier now. I'll continually be adding more of my own stock to the web-shop and I'll also be taking custom orders.
Secondly I hope that I'll be adding stuff by other makers and of course also some vintage finds. The principles for the shop will of course be very similar to ATD's codex, and the focus will be on quality, authenticity, country of origin, design, price, history and that je ne sais quoi that good things have.

The blogging will continue and it will continue here

Tuesday, January 15, 2013

A Small Update from After the Denim

Mark Sommerlund from Shoe Chapter on the left, and me, Simon Tuntelder
The updates are a bit irregular, I know. And I'll hopefully be writing more in 2013 and hopefully I'll be writing more interesting stuff. The reason is not only my own laziness,  I've almost completely stopped buying clothing - except for some thrift finds, as I'm investing more in tools and leather. Lately I've been spending more and more time in my workshop working on a small leathergoods collection that I'll make available for purchase in the months to come. It's almost finished and I'm working on building some stock as of now basically. However orders are always welcome, if you have something that you want me to make for you or if you see something that you like, just send me an e-mail.

If you're wondering, what gets created in the workshop and see some other more random stuff, you can follow the Instagram feed HERE

Other than that I've just participated in the very first official After the Denim collaboration. I worked together with a friend of mine, who runs the shoe store, Shoe Chapter, who has supplied me with numerous good shoes in the past.
We've created some very good caps, which Ebbets Field Flannels made for us. I've just finished a photo shoot recently, which will be released, as soon as the pics have been edited. We were so eager to release them that we arranged an impromptu release party, which you can see some pictures from HERE

Lastly there are some other good projects and things in the working, which will be released, as soon as I get around to doing it. But time is limited and there's so much to do. I hope you guys will remain patient and keep sending me the great feedback and keep commenting on the posts that do get written.

A belated happy new year and have a great day
 
//Simon

Monday, January 7, 2013

Crafts - iPad mini Sleeve

Just before Christmas a good friend of mine came by the workshop wanting to make a Christmas present for his dad. He wanted to make a protective sleeve for his dad's newly acquired iPad mini. Since I hadn't been doing any sleeves for the mini, I decided to help him out, so I could get a pattern made. This means I didn't do much on this piece besides a little bit of cutting, but I just helped out as much as I could.



Basically we just used a design that I've been doing quite a lot lately. Calling it a design is a bold overstatment. It's not even a design, as it's so ultra simple, but the closing mechanism is great for covers/sleeves, as it doesn't incorporate any hardware, which can scratch the device.


It was made using a leather that is a bit similar to the very famous Chromexcel leather from Horween, as it is a oil pull-up, but not of the very greasy ones. It's very easy to work with and it's very easy to maintain. The leather comes from an Italian tannery.


It's hand sewn using a super thick (8ply) waxed linen thread from Germany that I bought as an early Christmas present for myself.


You can really sense the grain structure in the leather, where it bends. Nice and subtle.


I can't take credit for any of the stitches other than scrutinizing every stitch like a hawk. He did a really good job.


Unfortunately it's virtually impossible to burnish oil tanned leathers. So it's hard doing anything about the edges. You can either leave them raw or you paint the edges using a good edge dye.

Tuesday, December 4, 2012

Coming Soon

I'm not going into details or anything, but I just wanted to unveil the logo of the first collaboration that I've been involved in.



Stay tuned and watch this space

Tuesday, November 27, 2012

Close Up and Private x After the Denim




One of the best things I've experienced since starting After the Denim is definitely getting to know some very interesting people both in Denmark and from around the world. And all happened because of the blog. I cherish every single correspondence that I've had with people and all the great persons I've met in person. One of the most inspiring persons I've met so far is Sergei Sviatchenko, the artist who also happens to run Close Up and Private, which I'm sure many of you guys also read religiously.




We may have a quite different approach to clothes and fashion in general, but I think, we share a mutual respect for each others work. Last time Sergei visited me, we talked for a long time about a lot of things, but mostly about ties as usual. Again, we are totally different, as I practically never wear a tie, and Sergei wears a tie on a daily basis. Still I like the tie as an object, event though it totally lacks function, but I enjoy the different fabrics - like elegant silks, heavy tweeds, sturdy chambray or delicate knits.


As stated before I rarely wear a tie, so it may seem like a paradox, that I probably have a couple of hundred ties stashed away. But knowing my hoarding tendencies it may not be a surprise after all. Sergei looked through most of my ties and hand picked some ties that he wanted to use for CUAP and at the same time, I could get some pictures for my blog. Beneficial for both of us so I lent him some ties, which has now resulted in some inspirational photos, that all have that instantly recognisable CUAP feeling.




All pictures by Sergei Sviatchenko and all words by Simon Tuntelder


Monday, June 25, 2012

Some Recent Stuff From the Workshop

I have this annoying ability of not being able to wait until the product is totally finished before I start taking pictures. I'm rather impatient for some reason.

The reason for me saying this is, that I just finished some gifts for some members in my family, and I took the pictures shortly after, I had just given them some neatsfoot oil. Hence the small markings on the leather, where the oil hadn't dried completely.

The recipe is like it usually is: Vegetable tanned leather and waxed linen.





Pictures turned out quite terrible even, but in case you were wondering, it's a double sided cardholder and a case for business cards.

Thursday, June 21, 2012

My Mom's Rings

My mom is quite creative and quite handy and I sometime hope, that I've inherited some of her skills, but I have my doubts, when I see, how many things she has excelled at, sewing, painting, drawing sculpting, knitting and so on. 

I could show you more stuff, that she has made or designed, but for now I'll stick to a couple of rings, that she had custom made to her specific design some time in the 60's as far as I recall (it could be the 70's, so mom, please forgive me, if I'm wrong). I've had them in a drawer for quite some time because I've been meaning to have them reproduced in my size, albeit I want to have some minor alterations made. 
Somehow I've never gotten around to actually having it done. Most likely a result of me never wearing much jewellery - except for a watch.

The first ring is the one, I've always liked the most. Please bear in mind, that it used to look a lot better, but one of my sister attempted to resize it, which made it crooked. To make matters worse she also decided to clean and polish it. Luckily it's starting to patinate again.








One day it struck me, that I could easily wear a signet ring, but in the end it'll probably be hard pull off.






I have just sent these pictures to a good friend of After the Denim in hopes of having them reproduced in my size.

Wednesday, May 2, 2012

A New Friend - Sergei Sviatchenko

Today I had the absolute pleasure of meeting a man, who I have admired tremendously through the project Close Up and Private. I've mentioned it before and I've even made a post with some pictures, that he took just for this humble blog - you can see them here. Today however we let the Internet be Internet and we met in Person in my backyard to discuss an impending project, and just to have a talk and a cup of coffee.

I was a bit nervous or rather excited about meeting this man, whom I had idolized for his impeccable taste, style and general view on fashion. Here he was in my backyard because he wanted to meet me and talk about, what I do. So I gave him a tour of my small workshop and tried to introduce him to, where I want things to go with After the Denim and my crafts. We also spent some hours talking about other - future - projects, The Doors and ties.

After the initial greetings and small talk Sergei cleared his throat and told me about an Ukrainian custom of thanking someone for being an inspiration or for doing something good and shortly hereafter he handed me a small, rectangular, white box with the words "Close Up and Private - Look" engraved on it. I opened the box and discovered the most beautiful tie wrapped in white silk paper.


This tie was commissioned by Sergei himself and cut and sewn here in Denmark. It's constructed of a very nice silk twill, it's backed with some very nice grosgrain (which my poor pictures don't show) and most importantly the width is just perfect - especially for a four in hand knot.



This amazing present came out of the blue and of course I wasn't prepared at all. Had I known about this, I would have made something out of leather for him, but instead I tried to return the favour by letting Sergei pick from my many vintage ties, which hardly came close to this tie. However I'll come prepared for our next meeting.

So Sergei, thank you very much. The tie is perfect.


Thursday, April 5, 2012

Crafts - Market Tote

It seemed like a natural progression to start making a bag out of leather. I've made a lot of smaller accessories for some time now, but never anything as big as a bag. Mostly due to the fact that I don't own a working leather sewing machine and only sew by hand, which means, that besides cutting the leather and constructing the bag, I would also have to make a couple of thousands stitches by hand - one at the time. As you probably can imagine this is a rather time consuming project. 
However it seemed like a perfect opportunity when a friend of mine came by some time ago and started talking about the need of a "big leather bag", which I turned into "huge leather tote" in my head. As I finally had a couple of days off, I jumped at the opportunity and made that "huge leather tote", that she requested.

There is nothing revolutionary about the design, and that was never the intention. However I think I managed to add some details, that makes the bag stand apart. First of all it's completely hand sewn and besides that the handles are folded and sewn together and it's not just riveted unto the bag, but both sewn and riveted and it has an internal pocket, which is left open for easy access.






As I have tried to illustrate with these pictures, it can contain quite a lot of stuff, and will definitely hold enough stuff for a weekend trip. It was constructed as a one piece construction for durability and simplicity.


The interior is very simple. One pocket without any closing mechanism for easy access.


I couldn't resist the urge to put my name on bag. As you can't punch the football leather, I had to put in a small tag of the same vegetable tanned leather as used on the handles.


As this was a bag intended for a very special person I wanted to monogram it. I decided to use some mil-spec brass stencils, that I had bought from the US some time ago, but never really used before. Of course it's rather reminiscent of naval stencils on marine army wear, but it makes sense in this case, if you happen to know my friend, so I really like this personal detail.



Stitching came out quite nicely. I used a braided nylon thread from Barbour Coats. The thread was only glazed, so I waxed the thread myself using beeswax and paraffin. A rather nice, but also time-consuming, procedure. Unfortunately I can really tell that I need to work on my edge coating skills.



The handles caused some cussing, as it really took some effort to get them right, but in the end they are also, what I like the most about the bag.
There is no padding/backing added to them, but they are made of a 3/4 mm thick vegetable tanned leather, so if they were to collapse a bit, that wouldn't matter. I wanted them to soften with wear making them more comfortable. To add to the comfort I rounded all edges and burnished them with beeswax.



For extra durability I decided to secure the handles using both rivets and stitching.


From experience I know, that solid copper rivets age really well and on top of that they go really well with natural vegetable tanned leather. Perfect combination.



Burnished edges


All the copper rivets were backed using the same leather as the body.



I just can't enough of that grain and from working with this leather I've been thinking about finding some nice pebble grain leather, like the one that a lot of shoemakers use. But I'm yet to find a good source for it.

Most of all I can't wait to see the bag in some time. I put a lot of effort into to this bag and without sounding  like a big cliché I also managed to put in some blood, sweat and tears. I really hope, that it wears well and that it will give the owner a lot of pleasure in the years to come.