tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-16325067079270922892024-02-19T05:00:45.181+01:00After the DenimSimon Tuntelderhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04116676140002943921noreply@blogger.comBlogger263125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1632506707927092289.post-36399588893560790672013-06-04T20:58:00.001+02:002013-06-04T20:58:21.441+02:00Almost The End of An Era<div style="text-align: justify;">
This has been a long time coming; I'm abandoning ship and jumping aboard a new one. It was never the plan to keep After the Denim on the Blogger-format, however I stayed here out of necessity. I have finally created my own website, which includes and new blog and more importantly a web-shop.<br />
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You can visit it here </div>
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<a href="http://after-the-denim.com/">http://after-the-denim.com/</a></h3>
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The new site has been in the making for quite some time, and I'm finally pleased enough with the result to make it public, and you, my dear readers, are the first ones to know. </div>
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I plan to leave this blog here as a memory of something great and I'll continue the blogging on the site in a new format. Although the new site is obviously more business oriented, than this one I promise that I'll continue writing about the stuff that I wrote about before without considering the business aspect of things. Things won't change that much on the blog part, I hope, except for writing a whole lot more, than I've done recently and hopefully the frequency will also go up. I'm striving to get better. And I sincerely hope that you'll continue reading ATD and commenting like you've done in the past. It has been so great and I feel very fortunate about all the readers, followers, people who comment and even that Indonesian guy who decided to copy my entire blog.</div>
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But the move does include some changes, I'm afraid. You'll now be able to buy the leather goods that I make, which you also could before, but it has been made a lot easier now. I'll continually be adding more of my own stock to the web-shop and I'll also be taking custom orders.<br />
Secondly I hope that I'll be adding stuff by other makers and of course also some vintage finds. The principles for the shop will of course be very similar to ATD's codex, and the focus will be on quality, authenticity, country of origin, design, price, history and that je ne sais quoi that good things have.<br />
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The blogging will continue and it will continue <a href="http://after-the-denim.com/blogs/after-the-denim">here</a></div>
Simon Tuntelderhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04116676140002943921noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1632506707927092289.post-60119015871898958452013-04-18T12:28:00.000+02:002013-04-18T12:28:37.101+02:00How a Kelly Bag Is Made at The Hermés Atelier<div style="text-align: justify;">
In terms of fashion houses Hermés really stands out. They have their own atelier and they really seem to care about quality and <a href="http://after-the-denim.blogspot.dk/2011/11/how-to-saddle-stitch-like-hermes.html">craftsmanship</a>. For instance I recently read that they bought the majority of the of well-renowned French Tannery, Tannerie d'Annonay, in order to secure enough high quality leathers for their bags and leather goods. That's dedication to quality. I also think Hermés could also very well be the one of the only luxury goods companies that still use saddle stitching to some degree.<br /><br />Some time ago, a rather long time ago, I came across this in-depth series of photographs from the Hermés Atelier depicting, how their iconic Kelly Bag is made and showing the steps that it involves. Plus it puts a face to the people that make and create. And personally I just like looking at the leather tools that they use, which are most likely all made by the venerable French company, <a href="http://www.vergez-blanchard.fr/boutique/liste_rayons.cfm">Blanchard</a>.</div>
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I would like to link to the photographer, who took the pictures, however I can't find the link and I've been unable to find the website, where I found the pictures.</div>
Simon Tuntelderhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04116676140002943921noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1632506707927092289.post-9935622371017638012013-04-17T20:58:00.001+02:002013-04-17T20:58:15.206+02:00Brooks Brothers Extra Slim Fit - Made in USA<div style="text-align: justify;">
If you're looking for a no frills oxford cotton button down (OCBD) shirt with a great fit at a bargain price, look no further than Brooks Brothers. They basically invented the button down shirt, so it makes sense buying your shirt from them, they know what they're doing (despite all of the commotion of trad/preppy blogs about the fused collars). Especially after they've begun offering some of the classic colourways in trimmer options. You shouldn't be discouraged by the use of "extra slim fit", as they aren't that slim, honestly. But compared to the trad or regular options, which some purists probably prefer, I'm sure, it will indeed feel extra slim fit. To me they're just a comfortably tailored shirt with sufficient room to work in. And it's great that they're offering sizes based on the length of your arms and the circumference of your neck, and not S, M, L, XL, as we're mostly used to en Europe nowadays.</div>
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The product is great, don't get me wrong. But it could of course be better, but keep in mind it's an off the rack garment. You don't get mother of pearl buttons and some of the other great details that you often see on some OCBD's from other brands, and you're quite limited in terms of colours, prints and patterns, however you get the essential colours. But the price is just insane. 3 for $225. And that price has actually gone up, they used to be cheaper. For me this is the go-to shirt without comparison. There are better products out there definitely, however the price and the iconic status of the Brooks Brothers brand is just the deciding factor, but mostly the price. I sometimes think about, how many shirts they could be selling, if they decided to go into their archives and used some fabrics of the past. I mean, I would love an BB OCBD in Chambray or winter weight flannel. They offer these options, but they aren't made in the USA, which is a deciding factor for me. I want them to be made in the US and I want that great single needle tailoring, that only they can make. Again, other companies can of course make shirts using single needle tailoring, however I think that the way Brooks Brothers does it, is so typical and great.</div>
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I've only been dealing with the made in the USA options. I don't know anything about the imported shirts.<br /><br />Fit: Great. Could be better.<br />Details: Great. Could be better.</div>
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Colourways: Sufficient. Room for improvement.<br />Historical correctness: Who cares? </div>
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Fabric: Fine. Room for improvement.</div>
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Distribution: Please bring them to Europe.</div>
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Price: Perfect.</div>
Simon Tuntelderhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04116676140002943921noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1632506707927092289.post-90324781141238640102013-04-11T18:23:00.000+02:002013-04-11T18:23:13.112+02:00North Sea Clothing Accessories<div style="text-align: justify;">
Now if I wasn't making leather goods myself and I just wanted simple, somewhat affordable, well-made leather goods, I would just buy everything all at once from North Sea Clothing. They make <a href="http://after-the-denim.blogspot.dk/2012/06/want-north-sea-clothing-expedition.html">an incredible sweater</a> for cold weather, but lately the collection has been growing to include some very good accessories that are all made in England by leather workers who definitely know, what they're doing.</div>
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The belt is awesome. Many great details that you might miss, unless you know about fine leatherwork or work with it yourself. The obvious is the hand stitching. It's time consuming, but it lasts longer and to me it looks a lot more beautiful than machine stitching. Other than that the keeper construction is so cool. And the fact that the buckle has had the roller replaced with a piece of leather, which is also hand sewn. The creasing (the lines that runs along the edges) is another great detail and a very English detail from the old saddlery trade.</div>
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Besides the belt which is a stand out for me there are some other good accessories, like the wallets. I especially like the Tri-fold wallet because it's not something you see very often. The "Explorer" model is well-made and beautiful, but not something extraordinary.</div>
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Tri-Fold </div>
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The Explorer</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPwbcbWS_2QDMwAsmPjkjTMCgNcbGauuEZSAolWDJ5Se6AAZekX6EpLT1lEaPSKrdo1-2iTVArC9LIY-3snVgCX9EEujgrpIk3sMoBulvBskK2CjBX9P_D8pQQZ5Z8HpKdpRgbM6rmx8l3/s1600/explorerwallet3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="582" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPwbcbWS_2QDMwAsmPjkjTMCgNcbGauuEZSAolWDJ5Se6AAZekX6EpLT1lEaPSKrdo1-2iTVArC9LIY-3snVgCX9EEujgrpIk3sMoBulvBskK2CjBX9P_D8pQQZ5Z8HpKdpRgbM6rmx8l3/s640/explorerwallet3.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Up until now the recipe has remained much the same. The leather is blue bridle leather, the stitching is white and the hardware is made of steel. Which is a good recipe. But I recently saw some pictures of their latest offerings and some other colours of leather was included.</div>
Simon Tuntelderhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04116676140002943921noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1632506707927092289.post-13506696085204376762013-03-22T11:27:00.000+01:002013-03-22T11:27:21.613+01:00Artifact Bags<div style="text-align: justify;">
Chris Hughes of <a href="http://artifactbags.com/pages/about/">Artifact Bag Co.</a> makes great bags in his Omaha-based workshop, which is one awe-inspiring workshop filled with great machines. His bags are incredible too. Hard-wearing, well-made and tough as nails. Initially his version of a lunch bag got a lot of press and attention, but I think his briefcase and <a href="http://artifactbags.com/collections/115">carry tote</a> are much more impressive, but I guess a lunch bag is a stand out piece and of course a lot of good makers are making totes.</div>
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The reason why I follow Artifact bags isn't exactly because of the products- They're great no doubt about it and definitely worth looking if you're in the market for one, however I'm pretty set in terms of bags. But I really enjoy his <a href="http://blog.artifactbags.com/">blog</a>. Now it hasn't been properly updated for some time, but previously you could follow his hunt for the right machinery for his workshop. It's just so crazy what you can find in a country that has had a lot of industry, like the US. I mean, I couldn't find much like it here in Denmark, even if I tried. And believe me, I try.<br /><br />There's a video too. Enjoy.</div>
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<iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="400" mozallowfullscreen="" src="http://player.vimeo.com/video/38522718?title=0&byline=0&portrait=0&color=ffffff" webkitallowfullscreen="" width="700"></iframe> </div>
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Simon Tuntelderhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04116676140002943921noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1632506707927092289.post-25982915555075301652013-03-21T13:52:00.000+01:002013-03-21T13:52:16.867+01:00Astorflex - Desert Boots<br />
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I love Clarks Desert Boots like everyone else. I've worn through some pairs and have been pleased with them. However it bothers me that such an iconic boot is made in Vietnam and often of a rather poor leather quality. But the iconic status will often make you look the other way and just wear it anyways - yes, it happens.</div>
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However I think, I've purchased my very last pair of Clarks, since an Italian friend of mine mentioned a company called <a href="http://www.astorflex.it/wp/?lang=en">Astorflex</a>. Astorflex makes a desert boot, which is very popular among Italian students apparently. For good reason it appears. Astorflex makes their shoes in Italy, of vegetable tanned hides (from Italy) and they use a natural crepe sole. Many of you will probably also appreciate that the price is lower than Clarks at around 75 euros. </div>
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These will wear amazingly, I'm sure. The tan leather is perfect for nice patina</div>
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Astorflex doesn't have many retail clients in Europe - I couldn't find any to be honest. Maybe it's because they're quite unknown outside Italy, or it could be conscious decision by the company in order to keep their prices as low as possible. They seem like a well-thought out company with a very open and transparent company, as you can see where they purchase their materials and they have a quite strict code of conduct. Have no worries about the retail situation - you can purchase directly from their web shop using Paypal/credit card.</div>
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Simon Tuntelderhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04116676140002943921noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1632506707927092289.post-31500315263794688362013-03-19T18:29:00.002+01:002013-03-19T18:29:28.886+01:00Steve Sunk - The Axe Man<div style="text-align: justify;">
I love short videos that showcase how stuff is made. I never get tired of them. However I do get very tired of the extremely pretentious ones and the ones that are supposed to be about a certain craft, but they more or less end up being about something entirely else. There are so many bad examples that you could probably compile enough material for a spoof video. Now I don't want to showcase the bad ones, I would much rather showcase the good ones and in this case; one of the best, I've ever seen.</div>
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Steve Sunk, who makes knifes and axes, seems so straightforward and so unpretentious. It's a relief watching his down to earth nature, while being so graceful in terms of his work.</div>
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<iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="400" mozallowfullscreen="" src="http://player.vimeo.com/video/50351080?title=0&byline=0&portrait=0&badge=0&color=ffffff" webkitallowfullscreen="" width="700"></iframe> <br />
<a href="http://vimeo.com/50351080"></a>Simon Tuntelderhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04116676140002943921noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1632506707927092289.post-8267817067397452372013-03-18T12:09:00.000+01:002013-03-18T12:09:16.567+01:00John Simmons Cord Shirts<div style="text-align: justify;">
One of London's prime purveyors of Ivy style clothing, <a href="http://www.johnsimons.co.uk/">John Simmons</a>, has these corduroy button down shirts. And they look great, especially with that flap pocket, which is a great detail reminiscent of old J. Press shirts. I'm a huge fan of corduroy and as a shirt material it's great for winter, as an overshirt or for very casual occasions. And the fact that John Simmons has had the shirts made in England and in some very good colours doesn't hurt either.</div>
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Now my love for corduroy is no secret, however I find myself not wearing it nearly enough. The problem for me is that you can never find pants with the right fit and the right corduroy. The pants are either made of a substantial corduroy and a very wide fit, or they're made of a flimsy corduroy with the correct slim fit. So if someone would please make some corduroy pants of a substantial all-cotton corduroy with a roomy thighs, narrow hem and a high rise, I would be a customer for life.</div>
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Simon Tuntelderhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04116676140002943921noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1632506707927092289.post-46739828874559989012013-03-14T12:27:00.000+01:002013-03-14T12:27:35.635+01:00Crafts - My Mom's Leather Tote<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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I'm not really fond of sharing my work here on After the Denim. I try to keep a distinction between, what I make and what I write about here. Of course it's interlinked, but I prefer the distinction most of the time and if you want to see examples of what I make, you can just check ATD's Facebook, Tumblr or Instagram. However every now and then I make something that I'm really proud of or really satisfied with, and this is the case with this tote that I made for my mom as a Christmas present.</div>
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Now this tote is similar to <a href="http://after-the-denim.blogspot.dk/2012/04/crafts-market-tote.html">another bag</a> that I featured on the blog previously, however I've become more comfortable with bag construction and this worked out a bit better. The concept is pretty much the same; a simple, rugged and completely handsewn (as in using two needles and absolutely no machines) tote with one big compartment and an inside pocket. This tote was sewn with a braided polyester thread, as I wanted a optic white thread as a contrast to the turquoise leather, that I hand picked for my mom, when I visited the Tärnsjö tannery in Sweden in the summer. My mom has never been afraid of colours and her favourite colour is turquoise, so it was an easy choice. Luckily she liked it, and has been using it daily for some months now.</div>
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It was quite a lot of work folding the edges and sewing them, but I think it adds a nice touch. My fingers looked terrible afterwards, this braided thread is hard on the skin and some thousand stitches took its toll on my fingers.<br />
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Leather backed double capped rivets<br />
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The burnished edges aren't holding up as well, as I would have liked because the handles get bend quite a bit.<br />
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This leather has quite a bit of grain character. It's normally used for shoes, but proved to be an excellent material for bags.<br />
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Simon Tuntelderhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04116676140002943921noreply@blogger.com8tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1632506707927092289.post-22408601820420929482013-03-13T12:58:00.000+01:002013-03-13T12:58:55.804+01:00Worth a Listen - Heavenly BeatFormer bassist of Beach Fossils, John Peña, makes wonderfully under appreciated music. At least it didn't really make any "best of"-lists. So this record is truly a gem of a record. All the songs are very coherent and filled with great bossa beats, I'm sure, you'll love it.<br />
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Simon Tuntelderhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04116676140002943921noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1632506707927092289.post-38282606135996877762013-03-07T21:18:00.000+01:002013-03-07T21:26:23.309+01:00The Elusive Knitted Blazer <div style="text-align: justify;">
I have so many ideas for stuff that could help me complete my wardrobe. Actually I think it's a never ending quest, but I keep getting ideas for things that would do really well in my wardrobe. Often it's based on things that are actually on offer, and that's when you start saving and planning, but sometimes it's a certain thing that you just can't find. In this case it's the knitted blazer. </div>
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I have this idea of a knitted blazer that you can both dress up or wear really casually. In my mind it's made of virgin wool or a similar hard wearing wool that has been tightly knitted, but still loose enough to conform to the body. Furthermore it's a three button blazer with a slightly narrow lapel, patch pockets and it's vented. Lastly it's not made in the Far East.</div>
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It could look a bit like this blazer from Brooks Brothers. It ticks a lot of boxes, but I'm not going to put a lot of money into something that's made in China probably. It goes against my principles that I stick to.</div>
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Another very nice alternative that I came across is the infamous, Spanish Teba, which is a sort of knitted blazer/shirt which is quite used in Spain. The original is made by <a href="http://www.belbarcelona.com/">Bel y Cia</a>, who probably weren't the inventors of the Teba, but they're probably the original maker, as they made the Teba, which was used for hunting, for the Count of Teba. Now this is made in Spain, which is great and the quality is definitely up there, however I'm not sure about the looks of the Teba and it's quite expensive, but again the quality is present without a doubt.<br />
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One could even consider buying a replica (most likely from Japan) of the <a href="http://after-the-denim.blogspot.dk/2012/09/john-lofgren-co-beach-jacket.html">Brown's Beach Jacket,</a> but it's very, very casual, but very good looking. However Japanese replicas don't always go well, if you're tall and have long arms.<br /></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9nlEy8gXXB1e2qa6c-mxmVg7IP45wNEmjZ7drsHZBZhAp6-MpVRoC5_vPd00PcMYEFcAoi0Xfcz3uuWCCOrdlsb9p-rnY9ti08Wj8jPntIlptWdXY_kX_JjN75GzUojLW96rsjO8H6ltB/s1600/beach.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9nlEy8gXXB1e2qa6c-mxmVg7IP45wNEmjZ7drsHZBZhAp6-MpVRoC5_vPd00PcMYEFcAoi0Xfcz3uuWCCOrdlsb9p-rnY9ti08Wj8jPntIlptWdXY_kX_JjN75GzUojLW96rsjO8H6ltB/s640/beach.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Lastly there's the jersey (rather heavy jersey) version of a sports coat, which is made in Canada by Wings + Horns. I've tried it on numerous times and even thought about buying it quite a bit, but there's something a bit off in terms of the length - I find it too short. But other than that the quality is very good and the fit is quite modern with slim sleeves and body, but you can compensate for that by sizing up for a more comfortable fit. If this version was made in a heavy wool I would definitely have pulled the trigger. But alas I'm still searching for the elusive knit blazer and if someone has seen a good one, do let me know where to look.<br />
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Simon Tuntelderhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04116676140002943921noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1632506707927092289.post-86889072843923652762013-03-06T18:05:00.000+01:002013-03-06T18:05:20.759+01:00Rancourt & Co for Need Supply Co<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Rancourt continues to be my favourite american maker of moccasins (my Eastlands are made by Rancourt). They're hot as hell now and making mocs and loafers for so many brands and shops. I think, they're even still offering the option of having made-to-order handsewns made. Something I've been thinking quite a bit about having made. I would probably go for a classic ranger moccasin in natural Chromexcel leather with brass eyelets and their French-made Lactae Hevea sole from Reltex. This would be a classic looking and very wearable ranger moc, indeed.</div>
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BUT then I saw these monsters that Rancourt made for Need Supply some time ago, and was immediately enthralled. Then I figured that I should probably wait a bit and see if it would go away. But I just looked at them again, and I feel like a fat kid at a Cold Stone Creamery screaming "GOTTA HAVE IT!!" </div>
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Classic nylon boot laces add a rugged touch<br />
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That stacked leather heel/counter and ripple sole from Vibram look great together.<br />
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Simon Tuntelderhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04116676140002943921noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1632506707927092289.post-39238419741700280752013-02-28T18:40:00.000+01:002013-02-28T18:40:25.720+01:00Worth a Listen - Jim James<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<a href="http://jimjames.com/store/product/digital-album">Jim James</a> - of My Morning Jacket and Monsters of Folk - released the his solo album titled, <i><a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Regions_of_Light_and_Sound_of_God">Regions of Light and Sound</a> </i>this year and in my opinion it's definitely one of the best albums released in 2013 so far. Now I know there's plenty left of 2013, but I'm sure this is one of the albums I'll remember when this year is coming to an end.<br />
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<iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="400" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/IDRALrVXJ_s" width="700"></iframe>Simon Tuntelderhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04116676140002943921noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1632506707927092289.post-20200835399684021712013-02-27T13:24:00.001+01:002013-02-27T13:24:18.441+01:00Helvetica - The Documentary<div style="text-align: justify;">
I'm really into typefaces and typography, although I'm not that knowledgeable about it, as I would like to be. However I'm sure that it'll be one of the things that I take some time to get to know even further, once I start to let go of some of my other obsessions. My favourite typeface is <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Futura_(typeface)">Futura</a> without a doubt and I recognise it wherever I come across it. It's that familiar feeling of seeing something beautiful.<br />
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A long time ago I watched this documentary by the renowned filmmaker and producer Gary Hustwit about the <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Helvetica">Helvetica</a> typeface. Now a documentary on a subject like one single typeface may sound a bit weird, but Helvetica is used everywhere and you certainly realize that it is indeed used everywhere - if you watch that documentary. Other than that you experience some great graphic design and some really crazy typographers, so if that sounds like a thing you could be into, then I suggest you find that documentary and watch it. It's full of inspiration.</div>
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Simon Tuntelderhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04116676140002943921noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1632506707927092289.post-60062550800158407182013-02-26T13:40:00.003+01:002013-02-26T13:40:51.257+01:00Saint James Meridien II<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Nothing says summer like a good, rough Breton tee. And I say rough because I want the cotton to be carded and stout and not combed and soft. This is why I've always preferred Saint James over Armor Lux for instance. Though both made in France, I definitely prefer Saint James. There are other good makers like Orcival and Le Troyes, but Saint James is easily available, so that's why I always opt for Saint James.</div>
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Furthermore I think the Meridien II model with its boat neck is perfect and the colourway ecru/marine (more like indigo actually) is not only great in itself, it develops over time and become second skin.<br />
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Saint James has another great model called <a href="http://www.saint-james.biz/men-nautical-t-shirts.php">Ouessant</a>, which is very popular in Japan because it fits a lot slimmer through the body and the sleeves and is still made of the carded cotton. In Japan you can even get it in solid colours. However having tried it, I didn't really like the slim fit, but I guess it comes down to you body type, but I think it could work really well on women. The Meridien is still my favourite.</div>
Simon Tuntelderhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04116676140002943921noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1632506707927092289.post-79343846311231114082013-02-25T17:25:00.000+01:002013-02-25T17:25:02.312+01:00Faribault Woolen Mills - Blankets and Throws<br />
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Faribault Woolen Mills is one of the excellent American makers that has been around for ages (since 1865), however not too long ago they went under and closed their production of quality woolen goods like blankets and throws. Luckily their mill was revitalized a couple of years ago, and their now up and running again. I read one place that half of all blankets sold in the US were made by Faribault, and they made not being doing that well, but judging from the press that they are getting, they're doing better than they have in a long time.</div>
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Ever since reading about Daiki Suzuki of Engineered Garments recommending the West-End blanket from them, I've been in the market for one, but thing is, I don't really need it at the moment. But I can appreciate it and wait for a time when I might actually have use for a good, solid blanket. Like when I get a small cabin in Sweden for instance - which will hopefully happen someday. Their military blankets can be found under the "<a href="http://www.faribaultmill.com/foot-soldier-wool-blanket.html">Foot Solider</a>" category.</div>
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Some retailers have also picked up some scarves made by Faribault. They're made out of merino wool, which I personally think is excellent for scarves. This scarf has some resemblances to the iconic <a href="http://www.thebay.com/eng/hbccollections-blankets-thebay">Hudson Bay blanket</a> and is a favourite of mine. And so is and actual blanket with the <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Canadian_warmth.jpg">Hudson Bay stripes</a>.</div>
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Simon Tuntelderhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04116676140002943921noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1632506707927092289.post-46946824118010258512013-02-20T14:10:00.000+01:002013-02-20T14:10:43.127+01:00Wilderness Wear Merino SocksThere are plenty of good makers of socks. Too many to list even. A personal favourite is Corgi from Wales. But there are also many good English and American makers, and I even have a good one here in Denmark. There's also a good maker in Australia, making merino socks that are suitable for all year wear. That maker is <a href="http://www.wildernesswear.com.au/Shopping-Site/products.aspx?code=S&viewall=1">Wilderness Wear</a> and their Australian-made socks are now available at <a href="http://www.platformplatform.com/category/apparel/">A Platform</a>, which is a somewhat new webshop with a nicely curated assortment. It's really a webshop that I find very inspiring and I have high hopes for it.<div>
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Simon Tuntelderhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04116676140002943921noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1632506707927092289.post-88122078312454761852013-02-13T17:59:00.000+01:002013-02-13T17:59:29.311+01:00Fred Perry M12 Polo - Made in England<div style="text-align: center;">
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<a href="http://www.fredperry.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/1/460x550/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/M/1/M12_126_1.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://www.fredperry.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/1/460x550/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/M/1/M12_126_1.JPG" width="534" /></a></div>
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A good polo shirt is an essential piece of any man's wardrobe. Now there are some good options of the market, but not nearly enough. Especially if you want the classics. Of course you have the iconic Lacoste, but nowadays they're not even made in Europe - at least not the most recent ones I've seen. You also have the ones from Ralph Lauren, but they're made in the Far East. Sunspel makes some descent polo, but I'm not even sure that they're made in England any longer and in my opinion a polo should be made in a somewhat sturdy pique.<br />
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But then we have Fred Perry. Most Fred Perry is not interesting at all - Poor quality and made a long way from England. However they still make some polos in England and from my experience they're very good, unfortunately not that many retailers offer the Made in England version. It does have some skinhead and mod connotations, but there's no doubt about its anglo iconic status and in my opinion it would go well with so many things. I'm definitely adding a new M12 to my wishlist for the summer.</div>
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Simon Tuntelderhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04116676140002943921noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1632506707927092289.post-86596671990483836282013-02-04T20:41:00.000+01:002013-02-04T20:41:13.544+01:00Derek Rose Pyjamas<div style="text-align: justify;">
Every man needs a good pyjamas. Right now I only own one, a German-made Schiesser Revival which is very good. But I can't help missing my old <a href="http://www.derek-rose.com/">Derek Rose</a>, as it was made of a very crisp cotton fabric that was great in the summer, when it got very warm.</div>
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Derek Rose has been around since 1926 and is still family-owned. They have specialized in making luxurious nightwear. Unfortunately they're not made in Britain any longer (Czech Republic, if I remember correctly), but the quality is still up there.</div>
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Other good alternatives include <a href="http://www.hilditchandkey.co.uk/Gentlemen/Nightwear/Pyjamas/Default.aspx">Hilditch & Key</a> and <a href="http://www.zimmerliofswitzerland.com/cgi-bin/commerce.cgi?search=action&category=MPJ1">Zimmerli</a>. Zimmerli is actually still made in Switzerland (For your information, Switzerland is the country in the world with the highest labour costs, but their products are mostly extremely good) </div>
Simon Tuntelderhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04116676140002943921noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1632506707927092289.post-48953487177438178612013-01-30T23:51:00.001+01:002013-01-30T23:51:30.167+01:00Archival Clothing Can Do No Wrong<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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As far as I remember I don't think that Archival Clothing has put out anything that I didn't immediately felt the need to purchase. Despite that fact I've ever only ordered some Columbiaknit t-shirts from them. But hopefully it won't be too long before I start supporting them more. It's like they can't make a do anything wrong. I mean, the collaboration with <a href="http://www.hollowsleather.com/">Hollows</a> was great, so are their sweatshirts, duffels, zipped totes, rucksacks and the list just goes on and on.</div>
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Not too long ago they released these cardigans that are made by Centralia Mills. Therefore you should instantly know that they're well-made, sturdy, heavy duty and of a superior quality. This particular design could easily double as a jacket in between seasons and I'm sure it would become the go-to sweater in many wardrobes.</div>
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Simon Tuntelderhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04116676140002943921noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1632506707927092289.post-86106781509517223062013-01-29T21:13:00.000+01:002013-01-29T21:13:02.481+01:00Ultima 15 Ashtray<div style="text-align: justify;">
Some days ago I was reading an article about the venerable English company Alfred Dunhill, and someone noted in the commentary that he couldn't understand, why a company like that would ever sell pipes and other smoking accessories in our modern times. Apparently the guy was totally unaware of the fact that pipes and the likes are an integral part of <a href="http://www.dunhillpipes.com/Welcome.html">Alfred Dunhills history</a>. </div>
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It made me think about times when smoking was the norm and really cool smoking paraphernalia like lighters from Dupont, Dunhill, Ronson or Zippo were still something every dapper man would carry around.</div>
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The Ultima 15 ashtray is a beautiful design classic of the 70s, and was designed by the Swedish design duo Holger Bäckström and Bo Ljungberg. Obviously these were made in a time when there was a demand for ashtrays, but today with a declining demand for ashtrays I think the Ultima 15 ashtray can be appreciated by smokers and non-smokers alike. </div>
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Simon Tuntelderhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04116676140002943921noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1632506707927092289.post-45720406927033810002013-01-28T22:51:00.000+01:002013-01-28T22:51:57.970+01:00Levi's Vintage Clothing - 519 Bedford Pants<div style="text-align: justify;">
I'm willing to look past the fact that these pants are made in Turkey, as the fit is just so good on these pants and furthermore I'm really into the bedford fabric. Bedford is quite similar to corduroy because of the lengthwise ridges in the fabric, however it doesn't feature the filling yarns that create the wales in corduroy. Bedford is also a very hard wearing fabric that was utilised by the US army for a number of years. </div>
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What makes the fit so good is the narrow hem, relatively high waist and the fact that the thighs are still slightly roomy. Actually it's a very period correct fit of the 60s - a fit that I'm always looking for and unfortunately a fit that is so hard to find. </div>
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I think, they would be some of the best pants for the forthcoming summer.</div>
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<br />Simon Tuntelderhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04116676140002943921noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1632506707927092289.post-55560681104791062002013-01-22T13:52:00.001+01:002013-01-22T13:52:43.831+01:00Frederico Polidori - Leather Craftsman<div style="text-align: justify;">
The Italian leather craftsman, <a href="http://www.federicopolidori.com/">Frederico Polidori</a>, was someone, whom I had heard mentions of on some leatherworking forums. Apparently he's incredible talented when it comes to constructing handmade bags. That's why I was very pleased to see more of his work featured on ACL, when he visited <a href="http://www.acontinuouslean.com/2012/06/13/made-by-hand-federico-polidori/">Polidori's workshop</a> in Rome some time ago. His style is very nice, albeit I'll never be a fan of tooling or the obvious Wild West influences.</div>
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Very recently I was looking to pick up some ideas from his beautiful bags when I stumbled upon this short video of him and I just had to share. Mostly because I just love his gestures and mostly his facial expression. It reminds me of the Italians, I know. Some of them have the most amazing ways of saying everything with a simple nod.</div>
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<iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="375" mozallowfullscreen="" src="http://player.vimeo.com/video/14323607?title=0&byline=0&portrait=0&color=ffffff" webkitallowfullscreen="" width="700"></iframe> Simon Tuntelderhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04116676140002943921noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1632506707927092289.post-11457132451164653682013-01-16T23:18:00.003+01:002013-01-16T23:18:55.748+01:00The Rifle Sling Belt<br />
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I remember, when I first read the post about the Riffle Sling belt on one of my favourite blogs, <a href="http://thetrad.blogspot.dk/2009/02/friday-belt.html">The Trad</a>. I remember immediately thinking that I should start looking for the hardware needed for that belt and so a search started and after some time I finally managed to track down the hook that makes up for the buckle on the belt.<br /></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgaOmE3DRCLfSeTbVCBbe0lJd0BnPNHOSmenicRIMRxCdNiQSvro9U9YdkPAw2-b3sifCMBM3PdSyQ7ifTZ1SaLfskTiDcdxMLVe7O0B34jx8u517hYg2uxRW6SHcNY25A2q25tDO0-KIzv/s1600/45.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgaOmE3DRCLfSeTbVCBbe0lJd0BnPNHOSmenicRIMRxCdNiQSvro9U9YdkPAw2-b3sifCMBM3PdSyQ7ifTZ1SaLfskTiDcdxMLVe7O0B34jx8u517hYg2uxRW6SHcNY25A2q25tDO0-KIzv/s640/45.jpg" width="476" /></a></div>
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The claw or the hook was originally used on the <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/M1903_Springfield">Springfield rifle</a> sling and at some point someone turned it into a very nice belt. As it's mentioned on the Trad LL Bean offered the belt, and I do believe that it was made by Bianchi Leathers for LL Bean, as I remember seeing a belt that carried both names. No matter what it makes for a classic and casual, albeit a bit unusual, belt.<br /><br />Currently there are some companies offering this belt. </div>
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If I weren't making my own, I would be ordering from <a href="http://www.narragansettleathers.com/RifleSlingBelts.html">Narragansett Leathers</a><br /></div>
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<br />Furthermore a more modern brand such as <a href="http://www.billykirk.com/products/no-150-claw-buckle-belt-natural">BillyKirk</a> is also offering their version, but I'm not sure what I think about the look of the claw.<br /></div>
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When I start making my own version, I'll of course try to keep you updated.</div>
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Simon Tuntelderhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04116676140002943921noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1632506707927092289.post-77814876159591429522013-01-15T16:44:00.003+01:002013-01-15T16:44:57.095+01:00National Athlectic Goods- Indigo Sweatshirt<div style="text-align: justify;">
Once upon a time there was a great Danish company called Blue Willis that specialized in clothing made of natural materials using naturals dyes. They were especially fond of indigo and made a lot of beautiful clothes in yarn dyed fabrics. Actually Blue Willis still exist, but production has moved out of Denmark, and the quality is nowhere near what it used to be, and the aesthetics is just different or may I say terrible. Now this post isn't about Blue Willis, I just felt that they were worth mentioning, as they made great indigo dyed clothing and I wish that more companies would do so, even though more brands are actually incorporating it at the moment. I like products made of a fabric that ages well.<br /><br />One of these brands is National Athlectic Goods, which is being made by Standard Design in Canada, which also produces Homespun Knitwear.</div>
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This sweatshirt is obviously inspired by vintage sweatshirts from the golden era of American sportswear and casual clothing, as it features the v-insert on the front and on the back. Other than that it looks very well-made and easy to wear, and most importantly it will continue to develop a richer colour due to the elusive indigo dye.</div>
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Simon Tuntelderhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04116676140002943921noreply@blogger.com4